WOW ! I knew it would take time, but ...

Re: WOW ! I knew it would take time, but ... *LINK*

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX


>The easist, and most pleasant, way to remove tree bark is with a draw knife.

Also, they ryoba will not rip straight beyond the depth of the saw. The crosscut blade on the other side will interfere with the cut. You need a big Japanese rip single sided saw, tatebiki or maebiki, which will likely cost big bucks. In addition to Hida ( http://www.hidatool.com/woodpage/saws/rip%20cross.html ), see Dieter's pages, English version below.

Pam


Dieter's Japanese rip saws

a quick calculation...

Dave Thompson


>72"x250x2 = 36,000 strokes per rip cut

?36"? / 1 1/2" plank = 24 strips to laminate together.

24 x 36,000 = 864,000 strokes.

No one will think less of you if you use a powered saw to rip those. In fact some might again think you were sane. ;-) I think you'll get more enjoyment out of employing your hand tools for joinery and planing.

good luck,

Dave

Re: WOW ! I knew it would take time, but ...

ThomD


>I would use an axe rather than a DK, because while pam is correct that a DK is often used to remove bark, you want to blow away the waney edge also. I have some hornbeam, and no way it takes that much sawing. On a budget you should get an ECE bowsaw, with a rip blade and not a japanese blade, those are kinda crappy. Japanese saws are wonderful when designed for the rip but one can pay 400 bucks for a good one, and this blade is 16 dollars and made in Germany, so probably cheaper over with you.

Try the Five point rip saw blade here:

http://www.adriatools.com/ece/saws/bowsaw.html

One problem with hand work is that:

1) a lot was done while the wood is wet.

2) you, like me about 25 or more years ago, are trying to make a bench in a very unusual environment. You don't have all the knowledge, tools in correct condition, or even the workbench that an apprentice would have at his dispossal. Of course it's the art of the possible, but it is a very difficult task. So either go easy on your expectations, or get some power tools into the act. When you have the bench made, you can consider the hand tool part. Hand tools, sawhorses, planing level bences, and workbenches are all integrated parts of what make the whole game possible. You don't want to end up trying to play hockey wearing skis.

It's already going better :-)

Dirk Vogel


>Hi there,

I'm exhausted, but now I managed to sharpen my saw, and instead of 250 movements I get one inch with 100 ...

"the ryoba will not rip straight beyond the depth of the saw. The crosscut blade on the other side will interfere with the cut."

That's exactly what i learned the hard way. :-) I think I'm not going to use it on this kind of cut anymore.

By the way, I didn't get a rip saw. It's a simple hand saw I have, you know, one of those that are smaller at their free end and larger where the handle is ...

"So either go easy on your expectations, or get some power tools into the act."

I'll see that ... theoretically I could have help with power tools, because my wood turner has got some really bold ones. One of them is called a table saw, I think, and it looks like its weight is about three tons :-) Very impressive indeed. For now, I'm going easy with expectations, though.

"You don't want to end up trying to play hockey wearing skis."

You don't know how right you are, Thom, for I'm not able neither to use skis nor to play hockey :-))

I'm thinking about the ECE bow saw instead.