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wooden plane bedding angle

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wooden plane bedding angle

#1

wooden plane bedding angle

ark40


>I thought I had this posted in the handtools forum, but I must have been looking at the general messages forum cause that's where it went. so here it is again.

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I've made several Krenov styles planes, mostly smooth but a few shoulder planes as well. The first one I made was to the spec, as defined in the David Fink book, i.e. 45 degrees. I was at Dennis' one weekend and we decided to experiment some, so I made a couple more, one at 55 and one at 35. Reading the grave reviews of the Mujingfang(can't spell but you know what I am referring to) high angle smoother, we figured a 55 degree Krenov would work real well for figured wood. Not so, I did a few trial cuts with all three and the original 45 degree still works the best on curly and plain maple.

Having said has anyone of you tried making a high angle woodie, and how did it work out. Are there any caviats I am missing.

I also have stock ready for a block plane, any suggestion for an ideal angle for that?

In case you are wondering I am using Hock irons for both the smooth and the block.

Re: wooden plane bedding angle

#2

Re: wooden plane bedding angle

thomd coralseacat@yahoo.au


>I have some high angle planes and they work great. One needs to fatten up the blade bevel, alter any blade curve, reduce blade projection, tighten up the mouth, fiddle witht he escapement, and the rest is easy. Birdseye is interesting because it likes high angles and it likes low angles. In one case you try to avoid lifting while reducing your cutting power, in another you increase the cutting power and hope you nip the eye before it lifts. If both ends work the middle probably does too.

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