"Stair Saw" Rookie . . .

Re: "Stair Saw" Rookie . . .

mikew


>Hi Steve,

I usually do it after the cutout for the hand is finished, but before shaping--just in case I mess it up.

Also, I find a Japanese pull saw of the right kerf width to be far better for cutting the slot in order to avoid bumping into the lower forward handle horn.

If you are using a push saw, tape a piece of carboard over that lower horn to avoid damage should you run the end of the saw into it--and you probably will...

Take care, Mike

Re: "Stair Saw" Rookie . . .

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)


>Steve

I have only made one stairsaw to date. Fitting the blade was hard work. As Mike did, I first cut out the complete shape. The tote/rear grip is quite low and the horns were taped up to avoid damage. I then used a blade from a Nobex mitre saw, and reversed it so it would cut on the pull. A Japanese saw blade would have produced a kerf too narrow for the 12" long ex-tenon saw blade I used.

Cutting the kerf took a long time - the blade is deep (on purpose, so it can run against a fence) and the Jarrah is hard.

If I did it again, I would angle the tote/rear grip higher, which would provide more room to cut (as it stands it provides good forward drive but a little less-than-desired downward force).

I am going to make another, but a little shorter. I find this long one a tad too heavy to balance easily.

Regards from Perth

Derek

You know . . .

Steve Mackay


>I probably WOULD have hit it ! Thanks for the caution and method !

Re: "Stair Saw" Rookie . . .

Steve Mackay


>Thank you. Sounds good . . . and I like yours ! Did you re-cycle old bolts or are those new ones ? Looking at cataloges it looks cheaper to buy a derilect Disston and canabilize it rather than pay shipping on new ones. Your thoughts ?