Strategies - Grain Matching for Panel Glue Ups

Re: Strategies - Grain Matching for Panel Glue Ups

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod


>Brad �

Some random thoughts �

Cherry is available in 12�+ widths. IMO this is the best answer if you are looking for cathedral grain.

If the panels are flat, you could get some wide veneer and have the same look, substituting labor for material cost.

IMO it should not be obvious that a panel is glued up. To that end, avoid situations where mismatched grain lines �point� to the glue line. Also, keep the annual rings oriented the same way. Otherwise, half the panel will read lighter and the other half reads darker, an obvious glue-up.

If you must glue up, quartersawn (or close to it) will display a nice ray figure and will have straight grain lines. Keep the rings oriented the same way.

You might be able to find cathedral grain in a narrow board and glue on two wings of straight grain stuff to make up the desired width. Again, keep the rings oriented the same way.

There�s always the resaw-and-bookmatch strategy. This will create the light � dark problem which I try to avoid but ymmv.

If the stock is curly, you almost have to bookmatch.

Ed

Re: Strategies - Grain Matching for Panel Glue Ups

bill tindall


>For a 12" panel I would use 2-6" boards such that the joint was on a rift cut grain with the chevron grain in the middles.

>>>>>>>

------------- = the glue joint

>>>>>>>

There are numerous urban ledgends about glueing panels. The bottom line is glue them up how ever they look most pleasing. The rest is baloney.

Re: Strategies - Grain Matching for Panel Glue Ups

Bob Lang


>I'm with Bill. I'd put the glue line down the middle of the panel and arrange the parts for the best appearance. This might present some difficulties when you plane, but nothing impossible.

Sometimes you can get a nice panel by using two pieces that are next to each other in length-the grain are color are usually pretty close. Whenever I do a project that involves this, I'll root through all the lumber I have available to pick out the wide show pieces first.

Bob Lang

Hmmm...

Dave Thompson


>Not sure which general rule is the urban legend, but here's some of my observations and beliefs. There are general rules, though they're not commandments. They can be fudged with better understanding of what they are for.

For me grain trumps, and I try to deal with the consequences. Having a better understanding of what can go wrong can tip one in favor of a close second piece of wood that is much less likely to cause issues.

If you're planning to plane the joint afterwards then you don't want a rising grain next to a descending grain. It's pretty tricky to plane that without getting the expected tearout that one gets when planing backwards. Possible doit anyway workarounds: If you're not working with wood that fuzzes up when scraped, you might use a scraper to clean up the joint. You might use a ROS (!eek!) but it won't be flat or better a drum sander.

Regarding the general rule alternating end grain up to down (U to n) to reduce warping.... this isn't an urban legend but needs to be kept in perspective of the work at hand. I wouldn't worry about for a 12" wide panel. Ofcourse it's not applicable to quarter sawn wood. Possible do it anyway workarounds: The further out from the core the wood was sliced from (i.e. the larger the tree), the less affect this will have. The closer the moisture content that the wood is to it's final resting place, the less movement you'll see in the end. The sooner the finish is applied the better. Also, finish (seal) both sides, less chance of this problems occuring. If you're in an area where humidity doesn't change much, then this may less of an issue. In central Illinois, it can make a big difference DAMHIK.

Re: Strategies - Grain Matching for Panel Glue Ups

Warren in Lancaster, PA


>I would use the full 8" width plus 4" from the next piece from the board to make a 12" panel. The narrow piece should be from the side that has the least conspicuous grain pattern. This way the focus is on the main board and the addition to the edge is not very conspicuous. I think two equal pieces looks tacky. Consider also making a frame with two narrow panels and a stile down the middle or getting a wide board for your panels.