Japanese Hammers

Re: Japanese Hammers *LINK*

Glenn Madsen near San Francisco


>I bought one of these plane setting hammers, through Steve Knight, and find it just right for adjusting the three or four wooden planes I have. Dave Anderson hangs out here regularly, and contributes.

For chisel persuasion, I use mallets I turned in my absolute beginner on the lathe period, from scraps hanging around the shop - generally something exotic. That beginner period, BTW, is fairly recent.


http://chestertoolworks.com/

Re: Japanese Hammers *LINK*

Dave Burnard


>For chisel hammers - I prefer the stubby or barrel shaped (daruma) hammers. 300 to 375g for fine work, 450 to 570g for heavier work and 570 to 750g for timber framing. Nothing wrong with the octagon or the rounded square shapes (I make and use them too) but I prefer the barrel shape for hitting a chisel.

For a plane adjusting hammer I used to use a small 180 octagon shaped hammer recommended for plane adjustment or my 300g chisel hammer. Frankly I don't like the way a steel hammer eventually mushrooms the striking surfaces of my fancy plane blades so I switched to the small wooden mallets (36 or 42mm) also sold for plane adjusting. The steel hammer is fine for adjusting small planes, but for big expensive masterpieces I prefer to use the wooden mallet.

My young daughter likes to use my plane adjusting wooden mallet for driving nails since her aim is not so good. So I got a new one out of that deal. ;)

Here's a link to the Hida website that shows pictures of several styles:


Hammer Shapes

Re: Japanese Hammers

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia


>I have seen and held Daves plane hammers and they have much to offer. Dave put alot of thought into the design and would probably be glad to talk to you or email you about your needs. His workmanship is topnotch. I have a marking knife of his and it is sweet. Look in his photo gallery for a Northern Virginia rogues gathering:-) JR

Re: Japanese Hammers

wilbur


>This is what I got from the Japan Woodworker as far as hammers:

Chisel hammer: 13 oz barrel hammer

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=11.415.13&dept_id=12907

Plane adjusting hammer for tapping the plane blade and backing it out: 14 oz wooden mallet

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=10.531.60&dept_id=12909

I also bought a 5 oz plane adjusting hammer for tapping the chipbreaker. I'm glad I have it, but I don't use it as much as I do the wooden mallet. I think one of the main reasons I got it was so my order would be over the >$200=free shipping limit.

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=10.350.115&dept_id=12910

Are these the best choices? I don't know, as I'm a beginner. But I can say that chiselling is vey easy to control with my chisel hammer, and I've been able to get ridiculously thin shavings using the my big wooden hammer for adjusting a second hand Japanese plane I got on eBay. Much thinner than the shavings I get from a vintage Stanley #4 in good condition.

By the way, can you post a picture of your finishing chisels? I saw your picture of your triangular slick chisels a while back, which inspired me to buy some Imai chisels myself.

Re: Japanese Hammers

steve knight


>yes mushrooming is a issue but the solid movement with a steel hammer is very nice to me.

Thanks for the Feeback

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ont.


>Hi All,

Thanks for the feedback and the links.

Wilbur I will post a picture when I receive them all, I have 3 of the 8 right now.

take care,

Jim

Re: Japanese Hammers

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX


>Inomoto-san uses a dai blank for plane blade adjusting. Pretty cool. I found in his class that I needed at least a 2 lb/900 gm hammer for setting a single blade since the dai to blade relationship must be a bit tighter than with a double blade.

Pam

Re: Japanese Hammers

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX


>Forgot to add that I ended up making my own 2 lb or so from a turning block of bocote, which is incredibly heavy wood.

Pam