Making an Awl - metal?

Re: Making an Awl - metal?

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)


>I have used the shafts from spade bits for my awls. I simply chuck them into a cordless drill, then run this against a disk sander. This ensures that there is even grinding. Take care not to let it get too warm (dunk frequently in water).

Here is one I made from Tasmanian Blackwood (wonderful chatoyance):

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Making an Awl - metal?

Tony - Memphis


>Wow, that is nice! Thanks for the idea.

Tony

What's CR?

Adam Cherubini


>Tony,

Are you using this for marking or making holes for nails?

If the latter, I suggest a sharpened flat blade like a bradawl. Traditionally, I think their shafts are not tapered, but I have one with a tapered shaft that I really like. Just make sure there's no way you can push the shaft through the handle and into your palm. Traditional bradawls have bolsters and tangs like chisels.

If former, make the end a long thin taper so you can reach into dovetails while holding the awl upright.

Adam

Cold Rolled

Tony - Memphis


>Well, I guess I was thinking a general purpose awl, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized I probably need two. One for marking and one for using like a center punch that is more blunt. I'll make one for marking centers and such first since that is what I will use the most. I have an old Sears that works fine but I just wanted to make one. I just finished a class and got to use one that cost a few hundred and I got inspired. The fancy awl came from the online store with the museum? Can't remember the name although I am a customer! Anyway, it is beautiful, and is one of those tools that just feel good to hold, but more than I want to spend on something like that.

Tony

Re: Making an Awl - metal?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey


>I've got a bad choice for material. I started with a pin punch that had broken in use. After it ground it to a point and put it in an awl handle, it fell on the floor and broke again, not once but twice. I suspect someone in China had improperly hardened and properly forgot to temper the punch. That's probably why I got it at a bargain price.

Handle is olive. Ferrule is a brass compression nut.

Since that experience, I've started with fully annealed O1, ground, hardened and tempered it myself. That way, if I get it wrong, I've no one to blame but me. Also, I can test the point before going to the trouble of attaching the handle.

I used a variation on Derek's theme for tapering the point. The tools are different, but the concept is the same. Which will work better for you probably depends on the tools you have on hand. I put a Jacob's chuck in a lathe headstock and gripped the point in that. I put an abrasive cutoff disk in my Makita angle grinder. With both tools running, it is easy to get a smooth taper quickly, but I was left with a brushed finish. I polished it with DMT diamond stones.

Working with Derek's belt sander and hand drill, and working through belts with finer and finer grits, you should be able to get quickly to a high polish. Since I've been impressed with the uses Derek has invented for the belt sander, I have gotten one of my own, and will probably use it next time I want to make an awl. It should work well for bird cage awls, too, and you can skip the drill.

Steel choices

jim reed @ tallahassee


>I like Derek's spade bit idea, but if I were making it I would use drill rod--probably 3/32". Chuck it into a drill and run against a grinder or belt sander (a la Derek again). Toolmaking is fun and I bet you will make more than one. Good luck.

Re: Steel choices

Patrick Gibbons, Houston, TX


>As Sir William said, O1 is good, Jim's drill rod is also good. W1 is a good choice. I also like 4130 chrome moly. Once tempered, it is about 35 Rockwell C in hardness, plenty enough for use on wood, and it is very rust resistant due to the high chrome content. W1 drill rod is probably the cheapest to use, has a high hardness and toughness after treating and can be tempered with water. Cold rolled is not a good choice. Most of it has very little carbon (if any) and thus cannot be hardened.

Re: Steel choices

Tony - Memphis


>yeah, I kinda figured I wouldn't be able to harden the cold rolled. I'll save that for some other task. I just ordered some stuff rom Enco. I got a piece of A2, 01, and W1 to play with.

Thanks,

Tony

Re: Making an Awl - metal?

ThomD


>It will harden if you quench it in super quench. If you just happen to have Dawm, jetdry, and salt lying around, that might be an option. Can't elaborate as my personal computer is still in the hospital, but the is a recipee on ebay, search jet dry or superquench

Re: Making an Awl - metal?

Todd Hughes


>I would use an old file. Should be able to find a suitable one for .10 cents or maybe .25 cents for you guys that like to overpay. A pitch fork tine or large upholstery needle would be good and maybe less work to shape too though somthing like this shouldn't take much work to make in any case.....Todd

Re: Todd, what are pitch forks made of?

George in Lowell, Mich.

Re: Todd, what are pitch forks made of?

Todd Hughes


>All that I have seen were a high carbon steel....I used them to make a good many springs as well as small edge tools / knives and if I remember right a couple flint strikers.

I still have my old pitch fork from my previous life as a horseman, used that thing so much over 12 years I wore about 6 in. off the ends of the tines. Have it hanging over the door in my shop as a reminder.... Always tell people if all the horse by product that fork tossed was piled up there would be snow on the top of it.....Todd

Good news

jim reed @ tallahassee


>It will be hard to stop at just one. Glad you will have some extra stock to work with. Good luck with the project. We are all waiting for pictures!!!