O/T Pouring Concrete

Re: O/T Pouring Concrete

cooper suter


>The general rule of thumb around here (Toledo OH; temperatures from 100 F to -20 F) is no more than 100 sq. ft. w/out expansion/control joints, your well under that @ 4' x 6'.

Unless you've got a really funky shape slab w/inside corners you should be fine.

Don't pour against the foundation w/out expansion though, especially if the slab is outside and/or constrained.

I'd be thinking about pouring a thicker slab though; 4" is the common minimum.

You also might want to do the math on how many bags of sack mix your looking at; if you poured @ 4" you'd be looking at almost 1/3 of a yard per 4' x 6' area.

Around here a good option is "you cart" places that sell in yard or smaller loads w/a dump trailer.

Re: O/T Pouring Concrete

Reds


>This brings up a question I had. How many bags of sac-crete equals a yard of concrete?

Reds

A bunch

cooper suter


>On either side of 50 bags per yard depending on the size of bags.

Bags range from 40 to 80 lbs generally.

Ends up being alot of schlepping of bags and mixing for anything of any size.

Almost better to buy portland, sand, and coarse aggregate and mix your own if ready mix isn't an option and your pouring something of any size.

Alot of bag mixs set slow also, if your looking for a hard trowel finish it can be a long wait.

Coop

Hey Todd!

Bob Hutchins in central TX


>That's a LOT of Sakrete, buddy! And I wouldn't even CONSIDER pouring only 2". That will float away on Florida sand. I'd put wire in it too.

I know you're on a time budget, but one option I've used in the past for small pours is to call the local ready mix place and ask them to let me know when they have a partial load where a larger order didn't use all that was on the truck. Not all ready mix plants will do this, but it's one of the advantages of living in a small city. Essentially you're buying what they would otherwise have to dump and pay money to dispose of. If you can arrange to meet the truck when they call, you can save a lot of money. This assumes that you don't have to be particular about the specific mix they have in the truck at the time. You also have to have all your forms and reinforcement in place beforehand.

HTH

BobH

More than the math will tell you ! Get LOTS !

Steve Mackay


>In the middle of pouring the walk-way out to the shop I ran out. I'm NOT a math wiz but even the calculations by my Dad (he is) can up short. Now I'm missing a couple of those neat-o crack lines/joints. I looked into getting some with one of these micro-mix guys. The rental on the mixer and all the mix did'nt even come to half the cost ! AND its kind of a fun afternoon. Well, the whole day I guess. How soon we forget the horrors !

You mentioned the expansion joints but I have'nt seen anything about considering some connecting rods. For the bay window slab (about 4x8) I drilled a couple holes into the house slab at opposing angles and cemented in a couple feet of re-bar, then poured over those with fence and joint. Did'nt want the new slab "floating" away from the house. He-he, so far, so good ! Just a thought !

Think of your gonads

woodburnbob


>I had Home depot deliver a full pallet of bags several years ago and mixed it all in a wheelbarrow. Once done with the project I noticed when I coughed, laughed or farted I'd get an odd sensation above my right testicle. In time this developed into an ache whenever I stood or walked. This was all cured with subsequent hernia surgery. Needless to say, I learned something about concrete work.

Looks like about 54 bags per cubic yard!

Here's the data from Sak-rete:

60 pound yield = 0.45 cubic foot

80 pound yield = 0.60 cubic foot

90 pound yield = 0.675 cubic foot

60 bags per yard* (60 pound concrete)

45 bags per yard* (80 pound concrete)

40 bags per yard* (90 pound concrete)

* (27 Cubic Feet= 1 yard)

Here's the pdf reference from usmix.com

http://usmix.com/download.php?7333f7280b7a5f02b28f443fad719aa6

I recommend a #8

jim reed @ tallahassee


>for this job. The bed is long enough to serve as a mixer and the plane will make a nice float for your finish. 8-) Good luck with your project. Hope you get back to ww soon as wood is lighter than concrete.

Drifting further OT; But NEVER!!!!!!.......

cooper suter


>...connect an exterior slab to the house!!!!! (at least if you live in an area w/frost).

Any frost induced movement (and there WILL be movement) will be telegraphed to the house and could cause structural damage.

The slab is SUPPOSED to be "floating" seperate from the house.

It's the same logic that is in deck codes; if the deck is structurally attached to the house, it needs footings so it won't move and damage the house, if it isn't structurally connected; it can sit on the dirt so far as code is concerned.

You can even get enough movement to damage a house in a slab in a non-frost area just by being on expansive soil that cycles through a wet/dry cycle.

Will there definetly be damage? NO; but you need to allow for the worst case scenario.

Coop

U-cart...

John in NM


>I've done that a bunch of times when I lived in civilization. Now I have a pile of 3/4" plant mix and mix as needed. The trailer load is a great way to go for up to a half yard or so (thats about 27 80# bags of sackrete), the only problem is if you have to pull it far, the aggregate all settles to the bottom and you have to spend a laborious 10 minutes mixing it back up a bit.

About the expansion joint, HD or equivilent should have 4" wide strips of this fiberboard stuff for butting up to the existing foundation or footings. If you want to put a joint in the slab you're pouring, just buy one of those little tools that float a rounded over seam. Sawing after the fact sounds more like fixing a mistake to me (but I'm no pro, so only basing that on the few garage floors and patios I've come across day to day).

I hope it helps, and is not too late, internet here was hosed by a big thunderstorm yesterday, and just got working again.

John

Re: O/T Pouring Concrete

Ernie Miller


>2" thick is going to crack! either dig another 2" deaper or pour it higher. You must be younger and dumber than me as I might do one 4X6 arean but not two by mixing bags. U cart sounds like a good idea but I don't know if that truck of yours can pull it. Got a couple high school kids in the neighbor hood? hire them for cheap. I find high school girls to be more dependable and better workers than boys. and if they are into sports they are strong enough.

Hey Todd! Are You Gonna Let Him Get Away Scot

Bob Hutchins in central TX


>free on that comment?

When a guy let's down his guard, you gotta stick it to him!

BobH, who thinks the Admins ought not let DOM (not YOU, Dominic) post here :>)

Re: Hey Todd! Are You Gonna Let Him Get Away Scot *LINK*

Ernie Miller


>Are you telling me you don't think his straight eadge dosen't have a bend in it wanting to do that much work by hand? I know this Todd O guy and he does work hard but ? He is one of the few people who can make a nickle scream louder than me befor spending it but some times you just have to let it go instead of working so hard. It's hot in Topeka




HOT IN TOPEKA!!!!!