Norton diamond hone

Re: Norton diamond hone

woodburnbob


>Is this the 11.5 X 2.5 $100 one? What are you sharpening? You're using it in a hand operated fashion, right?

I'd say it would be impossible to wear out in 3 hours. I'd also say it would be impossible to clog with swarf to the extent it wouldn't cut...unless you have some special way to pack the swarf into and around the diamonds. Lubricant helps this. If you're working dry, you need to brush/dust off. But you're a smart guy, that can't be the problem.

I have used coarse DMTs and EZE-LAPs that change their nature over 3 hours but haven't used Nortons. The ones I've used do seem less "coarse" over an hour or two's use but still cut.

There was a time, early in my plane-sole-flattening-compulsive disorder, when I was very stupid and used a coarse DMT to "flatten" a cast iron plane sole. I don't think it took as much as 3 hours to strip a large patch of diamond off and down to the substrate.

Diamonds are for sharpening carbide. Aluminum oxide is for sharpening hard steel. You shouldn't be sharpening mild steel and cast iron because it is "gummy" enough to rip the diamonds out. Some would argue you can disolve the diamonds into the steel, but I don't know.

Why don't you assume the best and wash your diamond hone in soapy water with a brush, then continue to use the soapy water as lubricant and see if it doesn't cut. If you are flattening chisel and plane cutter backs...it could be a perceptual issue. You wish you'd make more progress than you are. Lots can be written about that issue.

Oh, that reminds me, Peter...

woodburnbob


>There are some extensive old threads on this site, probably in the handtools archive section, on this topic. Somewhere in the 1 to 3 years old range.

As I recall, a fellow wrote in just like you. I think it was about coarse DMTs. Others then piped in to either confirm or refute his experience.

Again, as I recall, he sent his "stone" back to the manufacturer and got a replacement. I believe he was told that because a different process is required to attach coarse diamond grit to the substrate, one that is far less predictable and consistent, this is a problem with coarse diamond "stones" in general...at least from DMT at that time. It was sort of a "which batch your stone came from" problem. To me, this explained why some people had problems and others didn't. I don't recall anyone saying they had similar problems with non-coarse "stones".

If all else fails, talk it up here some more. Communicate with the retailer. Communicate with Norton, I guess...but they're pretty big and you're pretty little. If it's something wrong with the "stone" or its batch, I'm sure you'll get a replacement.

I for one am interested in how this turns out. Hope you report back.

Power to the people! Or, at least those who are not too narcotized by TV to move. Just a little editorial comment. Think of it as a public service commercial.

Re: Norton diamond hone

peter kolb


>Woodburnbob, Yes it is the 11.5 X 2.5 and yes it was $99. I am trying to sharpen a 2 inch chisel uaing the LV honing guid. Thanks for the reply and I will keep you posted what the retailer/and or Norton have to say.

Because of the holiday it may be Wednesday before I can get a hold of them. Peter

Re: Norton diamond hone

Fred Krow


>Last year I had a long discussion with DMT on the pressure required for use of the diamond hones. The downward pressure should be very light or the diamonds may be pulled away from the nickle bonding. This is easy to determine by running your finger tips over the surface.

The DMT emplolyee also stated they recommended water for surface lubricant. I use mineral oil which is much more viscous and have DMT hones that are over 20 years old with many hours of use and are in great condition.

Initially, the diamond hones are very agressive and will quickly become smoother which will then be the normal surface. I have an extra coarse 120 grit DMT for flatening cast iron planes, it has served me very well for many planes requiring hours of stock removal.

Regards,

Fred Krow

Re: Norton diamond hone

Jim in Burlington On


>Well if you've been flattening the backs of irons and chisels to wear it down that quickly. A2 seems to punish those diamond stones. I had one of those big ones wear down in short order

another case for loose diamond

bill tindall


>My experience with 220 grit is that it cuts aggressively for a while and then settles into a much less aggressive cut with hard tool steels. A cheaper solution is to use an acrylic (plexigras) substrate and load it with 220 grit loose diamond grit. When it stops cutting aggressively load it with another 5 cents worth of diamonds and carry on. Not exaggerating here. Five cents is about the typical recharge rate.

Re: Norton diamond hone

Wiley Horne


>Jim,

When you get that big plate worn out and bald, it makes a great substrate for diamond paste. It's got a flatness spec on it, right? I've got three of em right now with paste on them and they're excellent for that purpose (as opposed to the original purpose).

Wiley

Re: Norton diamond hone

peter kolb


>I'm sending the hone back to the vendor. The hone is "bald"

Peter in south central NJ