Pigments for epoxy and others

Lucky for you... *LINK*

David Barnett - SW Florida


>... I'm in a hurry and can't voluminize on this subject, but read this before you order anything. You don't usually want fresco pigments and many aren't chemically compatible with catalyzed resin systems, thermoplastics, and so on. The nice thing, though, is you can experiment with all manner of additives, which is kinda fun. I'm vastly oversimplifying, but you're probably better starting with colorants that have been developed and tested for resin work and light fastness.


Adding pigments to epoxy

Re: Lucky for you...

Thom D


>The best black pigment is probably carbon powder, it's cheap, useful in several ways (bearings)whether you want colour or not, and makes a great black for filling cherry pitch holes etc... You can use earth pigments in WEST.

You can add model paint,but it certainly compromises structural properties, which isn't always a problem.

Re: Lucky for you...

Dave Thompson


>Thanks for the web site David. What are the chances of finding something so to the point... I'll certainly test these out first.

As Thom coincidentally implied, my application is for filling knots in some FAS cherry I have. The burnt sienna arrived today. I have some black which was already on order that I intend for epoxy coloring. Though I've got my Buckminster fulerine source which I plan to try out just for the heck of it. Happen to have one of those ugly propane burning cement log fireplaces put in by the previous owner. The carburation isn't right and has left large deposits of messy black carbon fine powdery build up. Maybe I'll give this a go.

Thanks,

Dave

Re: Lucky for you... *LINK*

David Barnett - SW Florida


>"Thanks for the web site David. What are the chances of finding something so to the point... "

Little do you know, heh...

I've got HUNDREDS of bookmarks on this sort of thing alone. How about "A BRIEF HISTORY AND REVIEW OF THE EARLY PRACTICE AND MATERIALS OF GAP-FILLING IN THE WEST", for starts.

This article covers one of my favorites for long running cracks, knot-holes and even as a decorative grain filler on sandblasted or torched-&-brushed wood: low-melting alloys! These melt at temperatures as low as 112F. Anything below the mean flashpoint of dry wood (around 572F) works fine, and substances (such as Niello) that melt at considerably higher temps can be made to work with a bit of technical prowess. You can get a few bismuth-based ingots from Small Parts or MSC, or make your own special rose-metal blend, leaded or unleaded. Can be stunning. Lead's not so bad as long as you coat it. I suppose salad bowls aren't a good idea. For people one likes, that is. I inlayed a humidor with a peculiar rose-pink variant once popular in Bohemia and Paris. Nice effect.

Well, back to my moving ordeal.

-- Sisyphus

*http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/lma.cfm


Filling in the gaps