threading tools

Re: threading tools

Roy Anderson


>Mike,

I'd like to say that I have extensive experience with these threading tools. Unfortunately, I only have a little experience. I have a 1/2" model and I made some threaded hold downs with it. The tap works very well. The thread block is a little more tricky. I don't know if the cutter needed sharpening or I wasn't doing something right or what. Anyway, I made some adequate threaded hold downs, but threads weren't a work of art.

I also have a 1 1/4" threading tool and I tried to cut threads for a handle for my vice. Again, the tap worked fine, but the thread block was a problem. I followed the advice in the instructions and lubed everything with tung oil, but the threads just didn't cut. The cutter just mooshed off the wood and left a knarled stump. My dowel was fir. It might have been too soft. On the other hand, the factory sharpening job on the cutter doesn't look like much to write home about.

I really need to get this figured out, because I have to get a handle for my vice and I want to thread on the end knobs.

Sorry I didn't have a great answer for you.

Re: threading tools

Pete D


>I seem to recall reading about someone who had the same problem. He eventual was able to use it by only going about a 1/4 of a turn, and then backing out, going another 1/4 turn, etc. And yes, your wood might be too soft, or the blades might not be sharp enough. I'm sure it's the same as wood carving, where you need VERY sharp gouges when you are working with softwood.

Re: threading tools

Ted Shuck, Centennial, CO


>I have one of these tools in the 3/4" size. As Roy reports, the tap is pretty easy to use and works well. The die, which is used to cut threads on a dowel is more fiddly. I found that sharpening mine and adjusting the cutter setting (depth) were required to get good performance. Start with some scrap and adjust the cutter to just cut a little, then adjust it progressively deeper until you cut a triangular thread.

It really helps to have a fine-grained hard wood to work with. Dowels from the borg are generally not round enough to get good results. I have had the best results turning my own from hard maple. Lubricating the dowel with BLO has helped to soften the surface a little and give a more predictable cut with less chipout. You will need to back up a quarter turn every half turn or so to clear the chips.

I have not had success starting a thread, backing the cutter out completely, then restarting the thread. I have not been able to get it to cut back into the same thread groove. This results in the original threads being obliterated. I have learned not to do this.

Regards,

Ted

Also, check out this thread:

Pete D


>Ha ha, thread. Get it? I just kill myself!

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/handtools.pl?noframes;read=85821