Handle Material . . .

Re: Handle Material . . .

mikew


>Hi Steve,

Closed-grain is better than open-grained--the Oaks being an open-grained wood, if for no other reason than porosity. QS is stronger than flat sawn, especially true for open handled designs. Softwoods tend to give too much and will break, also especially true of open handles.

The angle at which a handle is in relation to the toothline has an affect on how well a saw of a particular length works efficiently. That angle is called "hang." Lief has a great graphic somewhere he's posted in the past showing handle hang. Hardwoods tend to have less spring, and again, especially helpful with open handles.

Apple is simply a great closed-grained wood to shape. It takes detail easily and crisply. Got a bunch of figured Apple curing for one of these days.

But--use some of those Oak scraps. If for no other reason than to practice on. There's really nothing written in stone that says it wouldn't make for an otherwise good handle that I am aware of.

Take care, Mike

Re: Handle Material . . .

William Duffield, on the Cohansey


>I think saw handles, especially open ones, are the exception to the QS rule, at least for open grain, ring porous woods, especially oak. There are more weak, earlywood "fault lines" that go all the way through the small cross sections of the saw handle, increasing the probability of a split along the growth ring. If I had to use oak, I would only use flat sawn sections.

For closed grained, difuse porous woods, which as you noted are better for saw handles anyway, these fracture points are not an important consideration, and quartersawn makes a lot of sense, for all the reasons you mention.

Re: Handle Material . . . *LINK*

scott grandstaff


>Oak is do-able. but barely. I did some early on

Better is a closed grain wood. Maple, cherry, any fruitwood at all like pear apple, etc. Walnut is a little too soft, but I've used it. Apple was plentiful and cheap so Henry used it, no doubt.

As a side benefit, fruitwood sands out to feel like silk against the skin. Much softer feeling than beech or even rosewood. It's just cushiony somehow.

Henry and the other sawmakers of the day varnished them which takes the feel away, but scraped/sanded smooth uncoated apple is an experience to be savored in your life if you get the chance. Try it on an old saw tote sometime and see for yourself. One try and you won;t want to laquer or shellac any more apple saw totes even if they do get dirty and dark easier.

Cocobolo or many of the hard exotics are good. Doh, big shock there.

What you need to start is a piece --over-- 3/4" thick. Even 7/8" is dicy for a beginner. Get a rough cut inch+ if you can or an inch surfaced. You can get by with less but that takes more practice.

Also needs to be very nearly 5" wide for a full sized tote and about that long. But 5X5X1" turning blocks are about the cheapest size and cutoff scraps this size are easy to get too.

Good luck and show us pix!!

yours, Scott


saw totes

Re: Handle Material . . .

Thom D


>Maple is great, that's why it's on the flag.

Oak reacts with iron to create nasty black stains. If I did do an oak handle I think I would pre-blacken it with rusty water, so it looks like ebony, otherwise you are probably going to end up with some nasty stains seeping into your handle.

Don't ask, don't learn ! Thanks !

Steve Mackay

Re: Handle Material . . .

David Churnega


>My understanding is that apple was used up to WWII, which automatically dates these things. Apple ages well and with use must improve as I have two old saws that have the most beautiful sheen and feel I have ever seen or fealt.