antique reapair, how to glue dangling part

forgot PIC 

bill tindall

>

Re: antique reapair, how to glue dangling part

Dean J in MN

>Hot Hide glue, it grabs fast and "sucks" tight as it dries.

-Dean

Think gluing jig.

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>

Re: antique reapair, how to glue dangling part

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>The hot hide glue Dean suggests is probably the best approach, but if you don't have that available, clamp plastic-covered or heavily waxed battens front and back across the faces of both the old work and the new, to keep the repair piece from slipping out of place, then gently clamp across the assembly. I like those trigger clamps with the plastic jaws (I think they're made by Irwin now) for this kind of clamping, because there's enough give to keep the clamping gentle-but-firm.

Re: antique reapair, how to glue dangling part

Jim in Burlington On

>I'd use hot glue on a few spots and regular glue on the rest of the joint.

Biscuits--they're not just for breakfast

jim reed @ tallahassee

>I would put a small biscuit in there. It looks like a too often seen bad design job in the first place--any repair is dicey. Hope this chair is for looks only. Good luck.

Clip some brads

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native now in Jax Fl.

>Bill,

Could you not clip the heads off of a few brads and stab them into one of the pieces than push the other piece onto the other ends while the glue dries?

Todd O.

I have to agree...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>A Biscut and hide gravy. Only way to go to me. It's (s)not just for breakfast anymore...

Dangerous IMHO....

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>Nothing to keep the brads from going up/down, in/out, Lert or right. All you have to do is shave down a biscuit. BTW, It can all be done with hand tools too!

the solution used

bill tindall

>First, thanks to all who offered help. someone emailed me off line with the solution I used, see PIC. Basically, the parts were wedged between two immovable objects- clamped board on left and clamped main piece on right, such that there was slight overlap of the beveled joint. then a clamp was placed over the joint (silver thing in middle of PIC which is show off center for clarity) and the joint mashed flat. Mashing with the sides fixed put pressure on the joint to aid gluing with yellow glue. I have no experience with hide glue and did not want to use something I had no experience using.

Looks like a good solution...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>I'll have to remember the wedgie!

Re: the solution used

Thom D

>Good for you! You have made someone very happy, I'm guessing.

Looks like a shockingly ugly piece of furniture, or was the overall piece more worthwhile?

Re: Gros Stabil

paul womack

>sell a sorta' 2-D clamp.

One set of clamps are used to clamp fixtures to the parts.

Then a second mechanism pulls the fixtures together.

http://www.grossstabil.com/images/Clamps%20Misc/GSP.jpg

http://www.grossstabil.com/multi-spanner_angle_mitre_clamps.htm

The principle is similar to the old technique for glueing circular frames; you glue "horns" onto the parts to be joined, clamp onto the horns, then planes the horns off when the jount has dried.

You can also attach "clamping points" temporarily ... with clamps ... at which point you're close to the Gros Stabil idea.

BugBear

agreed

bill tindall

>this piece was indeed ugle, actually 1920's tackey. but the main chair components had nice lines. It would have been best to cut the other dangle off and just smooth the edges, but not what the customer wanted.