Cleaning old wood.
JL
>Any recommedations on what to use to clean the old planes that I showed below?
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Cleaning old wood.
JL
>Any recommedations on what to use to clean the old planes that I showed below?
Re: Cleaning old wood.
Dave Thompson
>I would first use a damp cloth and a wet soft tooth brush for the threads. Wipe dry. Depending how dry the wood is, color, and remaining finish, I would use a little oil (tung or BLO). Then I would rub in and buff out some beeswax.
Brasso for the brass threads. I'd use a "rust eraser" for the iron parts.
enjoy,
Dave
Thanks.
JL
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What I do
jim reed @ tallahassee
>Damp cloth is OK, but water will raise the grain. I like to clean up dirty wooden tools with mineral spirits. It is easy to use and is not very toxic. I follow this up with a 75-25 mixture of turp and boiled linseed oil. Do it on a warm day. Put on liberally with a brush, let it set for a couple of hours, and then wipe down with an old tee shirt. Let it dry for a few weeks and then use Johnsons paste wax. Those are some nice planes you have.
Re: OK, that might work better..
JL
>I am going to vacuum them first though.
Disagree....
Dave Thompson
>While clearly water left to soak on raw wood will raise grain, your tools are finished and have been oiled and shellac'd. The words "use a damp cloth... and then wipe dry" were chosen specifically for this concern, and to differentiate from a soak in a tub and let air dry. Keep in mind that mineral spirits is a common stain solvent, and left wet soaked in your wood for a long period of time may have other affects on your finish, possibly including acting as a solvent to the polymerized finishing oils.
The method I mentioned is how I restore my woodies, wooden plow, H&R's and transitionals. Grain raising has never been an issue.
Regarding Johnson's paste wax... I use this all the time for the bottom of my planes (including woodies), and to protect iron surfaces in my shop. It leaves a dull finish on finished woods, hence I prefer using a buffed beeswax for the tops of wood planes. For the tops of planes, beeswax is primarily a cosmetic difference, though some might argue it also gives a little more grip for where your hand touches the plane.
I suggest doing a google on furniture restoration, you'll find a zillion how-to's.
Dave
Re: Cleaning old wood.
Todd Hughes
>I clean loads of planes like this and what I do is take them apart, spray the wood with some WD 40 and if really dirty scrub them down with some fine steel wool followed by rubbing them with a rag. If not real dirty just use the rag after you spray the WD40 on them. Don't go crazy with the steel wool and you will end up with the plane looking clean but still original. Might want to use some furniture oil on them but in my experance most times it is not needed. This method is easy fast and leaves the plane with a good original look about it. ....Works fine for me....Todd
Re: Cleaning old wood - thanks
JL
>Well, there are three planes. As we have three methods of cleaning, I'll try all of them - one on each. I've got all the stuff anyway.
Po-tat-o or pa-tah-toe
jim reed @ tallahassee
>Everyone has preferences. Most of my planes have steel on them like blades & screws so I avoid water. I also think mineral spirits is more aggressive than damp cloth (I am lazy). Beeswax is nice, but too dull and sticky for my taste. Jwax gets downright shiny if you buff it.
Pa- tay-ta
Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(
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Yeah
Dave Thompson
>sometimes I find it too easy for the minutia to get blown out of proportion.
I liked Todd's response... WD-40 and steel wool!! hee hee, as if... ;-)
Dave
A clean plane is a happy plane
jim reed @ tallahassee
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