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Honing Guide Specification

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Honing Guide Specification

#1

Honing Guide Specification

Peter Evans

>Honing Guides are a continual fascination, none are entirely satisfactory. Thinking about this I put together the following list, in order of importance. Interested in comments, additions/deletions, any reordering of the list:

1. Secure, quick, reliable clamping mechanism.

2. Blade held at required angle, usually 90� but may be skewed, and keeps that angle during use.

3. Bevel angle setting quick and reliable.

4. Can be used for all/most edge tools:

Wide and narrow blades

Short blades

Narrow chisels

Thick chisels

Dovetail chisels

Gouges

Skew blades

5. Minimum number of parts that can be removed from guide (and lost), preferably zero.

6. Easy to handle, light but rigid, suitable size, no sharp edges or uncomfortable protrusions � ergonomic.

7. Stable in use.

8. Easy to exert the right amount of pressure without distorting guide or impacting on the settings.

9. Reliable blade cambering.

10. Micro-bevels can be readily set in the guide

11. Minimum blade protrusion from guide (a) to minimise blade flexing, (b) minimum footprint to use more of a stone, (c) to hone small blades.

12. Easy to flip over to home the back � stone, plate, sandpaper, strop.

13. Repeatable.

14. Micro-bevels can be readily set in the guide without use of jigs.

15. Inexpensive.

16. Uses all the plate or stone.

17. Usable with all abrasive media.

18. Does not need additional jigs for effective use.

19. Complete instructions cover one side of an A4 sheet.

20. Can be used on grinder and stone without adjustment to the guide.

Note: Jigs includes devices to set bevel angle, skew angle, keep blade square in guide, keep guide on track (where guide runs off the abrasive media), and �...

I look forward to your comments

Re: Honing Guide Specification

#2

Re: Honing Guide Specification *LINK*

Joel

>Free hand sharpening answers all of these criteria except #19. Instructions take a few pages and you need to practice for a little while.


a guide to honing and sharpening

Re: Honing Guide Specification

#3

Re: Honing Guide Specification

Peter Evans

>Thanks for the link Joel, that is a great resource. I intended to have "human hands" as one of the guides when it comes time to test the guides against the specs. And certainly no other guide does everything, and maybe the only guide for some tools such as heavily cambered scrub plane blades (except perhaps for the Record 161 guide), most gouges (although maybe the Oar guide works here, don't have it).

Except for these examples I think the hands(TM)guide is rarely the best, eg repeatability, accurate angle setting, and speed of honing to really sharp.

I notice that some experienced woodworkers rarely have really sharp blades, but hand hone frequently to keep within the acceptable sharpeness range; and are remarkably quick at disassembling/assembling the blade assembly.

Re: Honing Guide Specification

#4

Re: Honing Guide Specification

mikew

>I agree with Joel the hands are really the best. We all too often get much too anal about sharpening.

But as a point of correction, the Millers Falls 240, the original LV and even the current one [with the forth coming cambered roller], as well as the side-clamp clones all do heavily cambered blades. And a few do even tighter.

None are as flexible and responsing as hands guided by the person who needs to sharpen something.

Take care, Mike

Re: Honing Guide Specification

#5

Re: Honing Guide Specification

paul womack

>I guess some questions are pernennial:

rec.woodworking, 2000

BugBear

Re: Honing Guide Specification

#6

Re: Honing Guide Specification

paul womack

>In relation to a beginning woodworker, it is "unfortunate" that the blade (s)he will need to sharpen first (a Bailey plane blade, likely at around 30 degree edge bevel) is the hardest to sharpen freehand.

This prevent a substantial and perhaps disheartening obstacle at the start of "dipping a toe" in woodworking.

And of your two objections to guides, the "non repeatable bevel" is not defensible; either a trivial projection gauge or the more elaborate system embodied in the Lee Valley Mk II jig will hit the same bevel every time.

Your point about jigs not allowing full use of the stone is valid, but can be greatly mitigated with minor thoughtfulness of the part of the user.

In short, if a beginning (*) woodworker were to ask my advice on sharpening, I would recommend a jig.

BugBear

(*) experienced woodworkers don't ask advice on sharpening: they give it. loudly and often :-)

Re: Honing Guide Specification

#7

Re: Honing Guide Specification

Joel

>When I first studied woodworking, my very first lesson was in a class of rank beginners just like myself. 3 hours later we all we able to free hand sharpen perfectly - maintaining bevel angles, microbevel angles, etc. I have chisels - some of which are 20 years in my care which have the same exact bevel angle that they did 20 years ago and have never been ground (althought I do like hollow grinding because ti saves time). I was slower back then but the result is the same as now.

It's all about technique and practice. what I see routinely with users of jigs is how after repeated sharpenings the bevel angles grow and grow, and the secondary bvels get wider and wider - because it's so hard to exactly replace the chisel in the exact place each time. some jigs make it easier than others but it is so much faster and easier to learn to do it free hand.

Between our website lessons and a video we did for Norton on sharpening we get tons of email from people who now do it free hand. THe general them I get from them is how once you learn good technique, and a little practice how liberating it is to get away from the gadgetry.

👍 This page answered my questions

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