Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
relative value of Stanley planes?
Diz
>Usually just lurk on this side but I've been acquiring a few tools-mostly for users.
I bought a Stanley No 3 which has been cleaned thoroughly & looks to be in good shape. From plane dating chart it appears to be a Type 7 (has the "S" in the castings.)
Is there a relative value difference in plane types? i.e. condition being equal is a Type 7 worth more than a Type 8 or 9?
Re: relative value of Stanley planes?
woodburnbob
>The market is really well illustrated by Ebay prices. #3s have had a remarkably stable price range for several years. To my eye, prices vary mostly on how good the pictures are and how pristine the plane looks. Short answer: it seems to be all about apparent CONDITION. A box just about doubles the price, as does an early (collector) model without adjuster.
Many folks favor the low nob looks. I just double checked: the high knob started with type 12. Also, many people have a thing for the type 11, myself included.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the type 7 and 8 don't have a milled front edge of the frog or a milled receiver for it. In effect, those t7 and t8 frogs are cantilevered out quite a ways from the relatively rearward main boss/frog receiver. The "new style" frog with the front and rear milled fit began with the type 9. The useful frog adjustment screw started with the type 10.
Because of the frog design/function issues, I wouldn't expect to use a pre-type 9 and get much efficient work from it. You're going to have frustrating tear-out and chatter problems, and perhaps wind up concluding Baileys are bad planes.
For a guy wanting to actually USE the plane, I'd argue you should put the pre-type 9s on display and spend your time tuning a type 9 or later.
The real bang-for-the-buck type is the WWII era type 17. Big heavy casting and a big smooth-turning adjuster nut (it's not brass, which is evidentally a turn-off to many people). BTW, after you try tuning and using these different "types", you may notice the high front knob planes are actually more "ergonomic", especially if you you pick up the knack of lifting the front knob (index and middle finger below the bulb and thumb above the bulb) more than pushing down with it.
But everyone has a legitimate opinion. This is just mine. Today.
Stanley type 17
Dave Thompson
>The real bang-for-the-buck type is the WWII era type 17. Big heavy casting and a big smooth-turning adjuster nut (it's not brass, which is evidentally a turn-off to many people).
Agree. My $15 type 17 #5 is the main plane I've been using for surface jointing for years. I like the weight of the casting and the performance. It's certainly not Stanley's prettiest type with the painted black tote, but it's an excellent user. fwiw, the large adjustor nut on mine is brass. I was under the impression that there were variances on composition of the adjustor nut in this type.
Dave
Re: relative value of Stanley planes?
Diz
>Thanks for sharing. It wasn't the answer to the question I asked - it was better. You answered the question I should have asked! Makes sense - if it was perfect they wouldn't have made a Type 8, 9,.....
I will hone the iron & slick the bottom some & give it a try with your advice in mind. Got some display shelves around the shop with collectables & stuff like this impresses non woodworking visitors.