Hammer Veneering Question

With modern glues,...

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>I don't think it's necessary.

But I'm a little concerned about the opposite side of the ply being covered with plastic laminate. I'm worried laminate may not properly balance your QSWO, and an unbalanced piece could warp.

Best, Ted

Re: Hammer Veneering Question

mikew

>Hi Hank,

I rarely tooth a ply substrate anymore. I do often rough the surface with 60 or 80 grit paper. Lightly, just to rough the surface. Make sure to vacuum the surface. You need to get all the dust completely off. I have found in teaching veneering that failure to remove the dust has affected more people's veneering than any single other problem. Using a coarse sandpaper also works well with MDF as a substrate. It's fast and easy--as well as something most people have in their shops.

fwiw, I do have a toothing plane. When I veneer to solid wood in the form of a cross-banded core, I do use it.

And I don't think going through the face veneer would be a problem with the quality of the bond. But the glue used in ply--especially if the BB is an outdoor like most--is really hard on edge tools like plane blades.

Take care, Mike

Re: With modern glues,...

mikew

>Using non-PVA type glues is a good way around this issue.

Depending on what the project is, I typically use epoxy or plastic resin glue--which yep, is water-based but w/o some of the issues PVAs have with their long dry time and glue creep/shrinkgae, which often is the culprit with warpage.

The other good option is hot hide glue and if on a small enough project which is not due to be in the sun I'll use liquid hide glue. Both are a rigid glue.

Take care, Mike

Correct me if I'm wrong...

John in NM

>but I was under the impression that you could only hammer veneer with hide glue. All the modern adhesives I'm familiar with require either clamping, a vacuum bag, or in the case of PVA you can do it with an iron.

John

Aye

Paul Kierstead

>Short of construction adhesive, I know of no other glue besides hide that has the tack level and set-up time required for hammer veneering. I suspect people just seen the 'veneer' part and not the 'hammer' part.

As to the question; I have done some hammer veneering, never toothed it first, though I suspect a really really smooth surface might not work.

Thanks for the responses

Hank Knight in SC

>I plan to use hot hide glue. The reason for the veneering choice is to be able to use plastic laminate on the opposite face. I'm relying on the stability of the BB ply to resist the warping forces. I know I'm hardheaded; but if it warps, so be it. Thanks for the coarse sandpaper suggestion. I'll give it a try. I really appreciate the input.

Hank

Re: Hammer Veneering Question *LINK*

Rob Millard

>I�m totally against the concept of toothing a substrate. Glues bond best with a tight wood to wood contact, and the toothing plane actually lessens the wood to wood contact. Applying a sizing coat of thinned down hide glue to the substrate, will better prepare the surface for hammer veneering. I�m not sure how your laminate/veneer panel will react, but it could warp.

For more information on hammer veneering see the attached link.


http://home.woh.rr.com/federalfurniture/

Very nice, thanks for the link

Dan Donaldson

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Thanks. Great Link.

Hank Knight in SC

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