A question of plane blade bevel angles *LINK*

Re: A question of plane blade bevel angles

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>HI Ian,

Welcome

No need to change the complete bevel. Just create a micro bevel and mark on the blade the micro bevel angle so you know further down the road what angle that blade is honed.

Cheers

Dan C

Welcome Ian...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>Stay at home dad?!

That's a better position than missionary eh?

Sorry I couldn't help myself...

A micro bevel is all you need. Let us know who you fair and welcome to the club!

Thanks Dan and Scott

Ian Smith (Sydney Australia)

>

Blade bevel angles for Aussie wood

Derek Cohen (in Perth Australia)

>Hi Ian

As Dan has said, leave the primary bevel at 25 degrees and add a microbevel(s) that take you up to the final bevel you seek.

I usually keep a 25 degree bevel for end grain. However, for finish smoothing on most Aussie hardwoods (and some softwoods like Camphor) with reversing grain I don't bother with anything under a 50 degree bevel (that is a cutting angle of 62 degrees on a 12 degree bed). Since you are smoothing, which is a very fine shaving, the extra high angle does not make the plane much harder to push. Add a scribble of candle wax to the sole of the plane and you will swear you are using a woodie.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek

Ian Smith (Sydney Australia)

>

Suggest progressive

Dave Thompson

>Hi Ian, Glad to have a metallurgicst join the the forum. As you can imagine treament and compositions of cutters is a common topic.

Regarding the regrinding the bevel, responses above have covered this. Increasing the bevel is the easy part and as mentioned only requires a microbevel change. Going the other way (lowering bevel) tests one patience, and ofcourse requires a full bevel change. Depending on the thickness of your blade, can be an order or two of magnitude more work. While I don't work with Australian woods, 62 degree as Derek mentions for a final bevel is uncommonly high except in the most difficult of woods (IMHO). As mentioned going back down in bevel is much harder. I would suggest you try a more common hardwood York pitch first, i.e. 50 degree total (37.5 on the iron) on the wood you choose to work with, and then perhaps increase your microbevel if you feel the need.

The negatives of a higher pitch is that the plane is harder to push, and it increases the chance of your plane skipping and or chattering (if blade is not well bedded or thin).

enjoy,

Dave

Thanks Dave *LINK*

Ian Smith (Sydney Australia)

>Thanks for the welcome Dave.

Yes I am a metallurgist, but all that stuff about treatment and composition of cutters might present me with a bit of a challenge. I haven't got into stuff like that since I was doing my degree at University. Happy to have a crack at it though, just might need to dust off a few old books. Cold rolling of steel and hot rolling of aluminum are the areas where most of my experience lies.

Back to the topic of bevel angles. I hear what you're saying about attacking it from a progressive point of view (i.e. start off at York pitch and then only go higher if you find you need to) because stepping up in bevel angles in this manner would be fairly quick and easy.

I have to take into account Derek's experience with our local timbers though. He is not alone in using cutting angles up around the 60 degrees mark. HNT Gordon planes mostly have a cutter bed angle of 60 degrees straight from the factory in order for them to be able to plane tricky Australian hardwoods with little or no tearout.

Regards,

Ian.


HNT Gordon Planes