Design question

draw it

bill tindall

>I find that if it looks good in a scaled drawing that it looks good in wood, at least for flat things like a cabinet front. I think it will have a modern look.

Behind some doors put 2 pullout shelves(especially the pots and pans section), on full extension slides. I retroed them into some cabients and wife loves them. Would have been much easier to do it in the first place. It makes the deep base cabinets more useful.

Re: Design question *LINK*

Bob Lang

>Hi Tom,

I'm going to assume you're planning inset doors and drawer fronts. I would put rails in between, but make them skinnier than the top & bottom rails-3/4" to 1". I think it would look odd without them, especially if you add a bead. As Bill wisely suggests draw it both ways and see what you think.

And now for the shameless, self-serving plug-you might want to look at the book Ellis recently reviewed here.

Bob Lang


The Complete Kitchen Cabinetmaker

Re: Design question

Adam Cherubini

>Believe it or not, I'm stuck doing the same job.

I think you need the rails. Here's why:

Its not like your drawers can get wider- you still need the carcass to attach the drawer slides to. So basically what you're saying is you want to make the drawer fronts wide enough to cover up the carcass sides' edges (which you may be able to see BTW).

YOUR IDEA

(looking down)

cc cc cc cc

cc cc cc cc

rr-drawer front-drawer front-drawer front-rr

TRADITIONAL

cc cc cc cc

cc cc cc cc

rr-drawer front-rr-drawer front-rr-drawer front-rr

legend:

cc= carcass

- = small gap, tho there wouldn't be one between the carcasses, and I recognize you may not have two thicknesses there. (cc-cc)

rr= rail.

If I understand it correctly, the problem with what I think you are proposing is that the center of the drawer is NOT in the center of the carcass/opening. You've elongated the drawer front to cover the carcass only. Below the lower drawer rail (or stile) you'll still have vertical rails, right? That's the problem. So how it will mainifest is, you'll have to choose whether the drawer pull hardware is in the center of the drawer, or on the center line of the door/cabinet below it.

The larger problem is that you're trying to mix frameless cabinets and framed cabinets, which I'm sympathetic too. I'm making plywood cabinets with drywall screws and 18th century hand tools!

Adam

My asci didn't work!

Adam Cherubini

>I'll try again:

Believe it or not, I'm stuck doing the same job.

I think you need the rails. Here's why:

Its not like your drawers can get wider- you still need the carcass to attach the drawer slides to. So basically what you're saying is you want to make the drawer fronts wide enough to cover up the carcass sides' edges (which you may be able to see BTW).

YOUR IDEA

(looking down)

cc.............cc...........cc............cc

cc.............cc...........cc............cc

rr-drawer front-drawer front-drawer front-rr

TRADITIONAL

(looking down)

cc..............cc..............cc..............cc

cc..............cc..............cc..............cc

rr-drawer front-rr-drawer front-rr-drawer front-rr

LEGEND:

cc= carcass side

- = small gap

rr= rail

. = meaningless neccessity. Ignore the dot. Don't look at the dot.

If I understand it correctly, the problem with what I think you are proposing is that the center of the drawer is NOT in the center of the carcass/opening (on the drawers at the end of the cabinets). You've elongated those drawer fronts to cover the carcass but only on one side. Below the lower drawer rail (or stile) you'll still have vertical rails, right? That's the problem. So you'll have to choose whether the drawer pull hardware is in the center of the drawer, or on the center line of the door/cabinet below it.

The larger problem is that you're trying to mix frameless cabinets and framed cabinets, which I'm sympathetic too. I'm making plywood cabinets with drywall screws and 18th century hand tools!

Adam

Can't....stop....looking....at....the....dot....

Raymond in Trenton, NJ

>

Stop!...17th..Century..dots..too..many..of..them..

John Aniano, also in NJ...

>

Re: "Shameless plug"

Tom in central PA

>I have been reading your book -- studying it carefully, as should anyone attempting this task. You clearly lay out alternatives, and make recommendations that make a lot of sense to me. Thanks for writing it -- and just in time, for my kitchen!