SMT "guttered #45 blades"?
Roger Nixon
>On the old Badger Pond, Stephen Thomas mentioned "guttering" #45 blades in order to cut dadoes without having to use nickers. Does anyone know exactly how this was done?
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
SMT "guttered #45 blades"?
Roger Nixon
>On the old Badger Pond, Stephen Thomas mentioned "guttering" #45 blades in order to cut dadoes without having to use nickers. Does anyone know exactly how this was done?
Re: SMT "guttered #45 blades"?
Ted Shuck, Centennial, CO
>I had not seen this before, but it sounds like he shaped the cutting edge similar to one of those nicker blades from a woody dado plane. That is, the cutting edge is indented between the two outside edges. The prominent outside edges serve as the nickers.
The only way I can think of to do this would be to grind a bevel in two levels. The very outside edges of the blade would be at the "normal" bevel. Between the outside edges, you would have to grind a trough in the bevel so that the outside edges meet the wood first and score it.
This could be similar to a beading blade with very sharp prongs on the outside edges and a very shallow profile???
Regards,
Ted
Concur
Jorge Castaneda
>You got it.
Happy Birthday Jorge.
Dave Anderson Chester, NH
>I'm gonna wish you a great one. I'm also gonna be nice and not tell which one it is.
He's got more than one?
Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA
>LOML and I have two anniversaries (formal and informal), but I've never heard of someone who's got more than one birthday.
Happy Birthday from me also!
HC Sakman @ Victoria, BC
>and wish you many more Jorge!
Chico...
Re: SMT "guttered #45 blades"?
Roger Nixon
>That is kind of what I thought but how would you grind it? Dremel?
Re: SMT "guttered #45 blades"?
Derek Cohen (in Perth Australia)
>Roger
It seems to me to be enormously difficult to create such a blade without special jigs. Not only do you need to grind between two points, but you also need to grind flat. And then you need to hone it all to a useful edge.
What is wrong with using the #45 with nickers on each side of the blade?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Re: no;grind the back, not the bevel
paul womack
>A small gutter (hence the name) is ground in the back of the blade.
When the bevel is sharpened normally (i.e. flat) the 2 proud edges end up protruding a little, and act as nickers.
Once the gutter has been ground, no further special action is required, (although backing off the burr when sharpening requires a slip stone).
BugBear
There is a different way
Jim Reed @ Tallahassee
>to get the same results. I don't like the nickers either because they always seem to leave a rough shoulder. What I do is use a 1/8" blade first. On a rabbet, I cut the inside shoulder first with a 1/8 and then clean out the waste with a larger blade. Nice looking shoulder and the fence does not have to be exactly on target to make a nice cut. For large dados, I cut a saw kerf in lieu of nickers. Works for me.
Good one!
Roger Nixon
>Seems so obvious once someone point it out.
Thanks, BB.
Re: SMT "guttered #45 blades"?
Roger Nixon
>Nothing really wrong with using the nickers but it is always nice to be able to skip a step if possible. I don't like sharpening nickers and I wonder where I will get replacements when they are sharpened up.
I was thinking of making some dado blades to fit ummm... laminated wood panels, yeah that's it, and I remembered Stephen writing that he cut dados in ply.. laminated stock with a #45 and guttered blades.
Re: Happy Birthday Jorge.
Jorge Castaneda
>Dave,
Thank you! very nice of you to remember, I will have to do some research and find when is yours...: )
Re: He's got more than one?
Jorge Castaneda
>Bill,
It is not aobut 2 birthdays, it is about having scores of them, so it is hard to remember which one...
Re: Happy Birthday from me also!
Jorge Castaneda
>Gracias Chico
I hope you get lots of them too. : )