>I have been reading the archives for the past few hours and have yet to find an answer to my question. Which plane is preferred for trimming the the cheeks of tennons. I currently have the LV large shoulder plane which I find ackward to use. However it is a thing of beauty. It sits un-used in a drawer with other LV works of art.
Up til now most of the tennons I cut are 3/4 to 1" in length and I would like to start makeing through tennons. Therefor the second part of my question would be, do either of the planes handle both short and long tennons.
I certainly appreciate any feedback to help me in this decision.
>I don't own (and haven't tried) the Rabbet Plane, but I do use the skew for this purpose and it works amazingly well, capable of easily taking a nice shaving off across the tenon. A little practice to get an even shaving is required, but not much.
>Hi I have the 60 1/2R from LN and use it quite a bit. The only issue is to ensure that you are putting pressure on the side of the plane closest to the shoulder of the tennon or you will taper the tennon. I also have the LN large shoulder plane which is the best thing for this operation. I don't have expirience with the LV so I can only comment about the LN. It fixes any tapering I caused with the 601/2R and it works perfect is trimming the shoulders and the cheecks. I would think about it because it held differently then the LV and may not seem awkward to you. It is designed to cut shoulders and cheeks.
Besides if you buy it, use it and don't like it you can get almost what you paid for it very easily.
>Take a block plane and a tenon. Put the tenon on the bench the way you normally would and "plane" the cheek (no need for the blade to actually extend, or for the stroke to be actually taken for that matter). The side of the plane against the shoulder is the type of plane. For example, if the left-hand side of the plane is up against the shoulder, you want the left handed plane. As a righty, I find this the most natural, but another fellow I was talking to planes his cheeks with the tenon upright in a vise, so he would use the right-handed plane.
I recently got the LN 140's (left and right) for Christmas/Birthday and haven't tried for tenon cheeks yet but think the LN 60 1/2R is a better way to go.
>This was discussed a little while ago. Link below.
With regards the choice of a skew block plane vs wide shoulder plane vs rabbet block plane, the short answer is that all can be used. My preference is a block-type plane rather than a shoulder plane as its low centre of effort offers better control. A skewed blade planes better across the grain than a straight blade, but I would not get obsessed by this as the surface is hidden inside a mortice. I use a well-tuned Stanley #140 with an LN blade.
"...Which plane is preferred for trimming the the cheeks of tennons. I currently have the LV large shoulder plane which I find ackward to use."
When I use a plane, I tend to use the LN Rabbet Block Plane, though I also have the skew block.
However, I typically cut very close to the line and any triming is very little so I tend to quickly rasp the tenon cheeks. Leaves a reasonably smooth surface, I have finer control and I don't need to adjust them for a cut prior to using them.
>LN 60-1/2R. The 140's you'll find it's better to have both left and right ones depending how you aproach your work. If you get the 60-1/2R have it nickered, them you'll beable to do all kinds of things with it.
>Scott, you make a great point here about 'just ask'. Thomas Lie-Nielsen will do a lot of custom work, if you ask. Special blades or tool modifications.
I recently needed a round-bottom shave with a very tight radius, tighter than the 1.5" radius which comes on the LN small bronze shave. I emailed Thomas, and described the situation. It had to do with shaving the curve into the 'spade foot' of a Federal period table. I'll post pictures at some point. Anyway, Thomas wrote back and said "We'll be happy to make a modified shave for you".
Within a week, LN had taken a stock shave, and machined a tighter radius on the bottom--as tight as they could practically get it, which worked out to about 1-1/8". I said please ship it.
It arrived, and it did the job perfectly. I was so impressed and grateful, because I couldn't even put a spec on the job. Just "get it as tight as you can and bill me your cost". It was like one of those arrangements you make leaning against the fender of a pickup truck. I looked at the invoice, and there was no charge for the modification. Just the regular price.
Over and above my gratitude, this episode made me think about the Lie-Nielsen company in a different way. The same way Scott was thinking about them, when he asked for the nickers on his 60-1/2R. They'll do what you want, if it's within their power. Just email or call Thomas, and things happen fast.
I'm fixing to send them some specs on thicker blades for a couple of old Preston shaves, to tighten the mouths up.
>That is pretty cool Wiley. SOunds like allot of extra work.
I know when they were very low in ductile iron 140's (left version) I e-mailed LN and they responded stating they would make one for me if they ran out before I could afford to buy one of the current stocked 140's. Luckily my parents stepped up and bought me one for Christmas.
Now if they could only make me a bronze 4.5 for the same price as a regular LN 4.5 ;)
>Let me know how you make out on the special blades for the Preston shaves. I have a Preston shave with the curved sole which I bought from Tony Murland a couple of years ago which definately needs a tighter mouth. I think the original blade is only about .040-.060 thick. I'd be especially interested in the specs you develop.
I'll email Thomas and see if the coast is clear to proceed. I wuz thinking about just tracing the blades, and sending that, plus a request to make 'em X" thick. Will let you know what I find out.
When is you going to offer a panel gauge? I don't want to make one, and my 85-1/2 has a wiggle in its walk.
>Right now I'm working on the first production run of the square bladed birdcage awls. For those of you at the January Springfield breakfast, the handle shape has changed. Rigth now I'm putting the first coats of finish on the Brazilian Tulipwood and Gabon Ebony versions of the handles.
I'm going to start on the panel gages in april. I'll only offer them standard in one wood (other to be custom) and I haven't decided which one to use yet. Any suggestions?
It seems like the wood choice would depend partly on the system for locking the arm within the stock. Which seems like the key decision you have to make. If you use a turnscrew acting at an angle so that it crowds the arm down into one corner of the socket, then it seems like you have a lot of wood choice. On the other hand, if the locking system depends on a permanent close fit of the arm in the stock, then it seems like you would have to go with a real dense tropical, cocobolo, bubinga, or one of the rosewoods, for example.
I would give some thought to the angled turnscrew, coupled with a thick stock. I am also very impressed with the wedge action on C&W's new wedge-arm plough.
With the right locking system, I personally think that hard curly maple would be great, and it appeals because it is a domestic. The curl just for looks of course.
