rusty back sew

Re: rusty back sew

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Yes, indeed, if it's rusty enough, it won't work well. Backsaws, particularly, need to be clean and shiny because they have little set. Saw teeth are usually bent out on alternate sides to give some clearance in the cut, and backsaws, which are designed for fine cuts, usually have less set so that the cut is more precise. So a buildup of rust or dirt can result in the blade being almost the width of the kerf the teeth are cutting.

Everyone has a favorite approach to cleaning up metal woodworking tools. I use a brillo or SOS pad and warm water, followed immediately by a wipe-down with WD-40 so that the rust doesn't start up again. Watch your fingers by the teeth, and, in that area, move the brillo pad mainly forward along the saw's length, to avoid catching the pad and your fingers on the teeth. Once you've cleaned it up, apply some furniture wax (real wax, not furniture polish - any hardware store or Home Despot or Lowe's should have it, about $4 for a can that will last you a decade in the shop), and rub it out.

Others prefer to work "dry," and use sandpaper, 220 grit to start, wrapped around a block of fairly flat, fairly smooth wood. Again, be careful by the teeth.

Once you've cleaned it, hold the saw upside down and sight along the length of the sawblade - does it appear to be straight? If it's kinked, you could get stickiness from that, too (though I've found that a long, gentle curve, though it's not ideal because it confuses the cutting action, usually will create fewer problems unless your cut is nearly the length of your saw).

Starting your St. Patrick's Day Drinking Early?

Anon Y Mous

>

Re: Starting your St. Patrick's Day Drinking Early

truck 1041

>i have adisibility thanks for the encouragement!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Re: Starting your St. Patrick's Day Drinking Early

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Please don't take any offense from that post Truck(Mr.Bowers). That was just a troll and he didn't speak for anyone but himself.

Welcome to the forum and hang around. You will get your answers eventually if you lurk long enough and post your questions as you have them.JR

Hey Truck

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native now in Jax Fl.

>i have adisibility

If you don't mind me asking, may I ask what is this?

Don't worry none about mispellings, between Ernie and Todd H. we're all pretty good at fiquring out what you meant. Man, two jabs at once, I'm on a roll now. ;~)

We had a conversation here not to long ago, where it was prved that as lng as the fisrt and last letters of a wod are in the rigt place the hmuan brain can decipher what the word is. Quite amazing really.

Fear not, you are amongest the friendliest folks on the 'net. We get a troll every now and again, but they quickly move on.

So where you at with your woodworking? Beginner? Intermediate? Pro?

Welcome aboard.

Todd O.

Re: Hey Truck

Ernie Miller

>Dang Todd if you are going to act like this I am going to quit being so nice to you.

Tuck try cleaning your saw up like was told a little further down if that don't help theye is info on sharpening and seting saws to the left in the brown box in the articals section. if you have problems after cleaning come back and ask more or let us know and we will work you thru it.

You want a trick I haven't told any of these other people about to protect them teeth when cleaning your saw? Promice not to tell any one. I put a plastic poster frame clip thingy onover the teeth to protect them it is that little U shaped thing that holds the plastic poster and backer board together and looks like a mitered frame. it protects the teeth while allowing you to get right up to them with the sand paper. Also if you saw is cuvered in gunk and not rust. I like to use oven cleaner and a scotch brite pad to clean the saws. that stuff will remove any thing and leave the saw shiney as can be. After it dries you will need to use a 400 grit paper to bring it to life but it works great and is fast.