Raised panel

Re: Raised panel

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>You may want to try using a batten to help get those crisp edges, and a very sharp blade.

Pam

Re: Raised panel

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>Bob �

You are making a fielded panel. A raised panel or raised and fielded panel would have a center section with vertical sides raised above the beveled edges of the panel.

For a crisply defined center panel, raise it with a rabbet, fillister or shoulder plane. Then bevel the edges with your #6. The #6 won�t get into the corner. A shoulder or rabbet plane can clean up this detail.

To get a crisp(er) fielded panel with your #6, clamp a beveled fence to the sole. The fence bevel will help a bit with maintaining the desired bevel angle but your developing skill will be important too. To assist with maintaining the bevel angle, set a bevel gauge so it is perpendicular to the bevel angle and place it in your line of vision.

Ed

Alternate visual reference

Bob Hackett(Mainely,Bob)

>I find it easier for me to place a thin metal rod or a length of small diameter dowel in a hole drilled to vertical in the fence that is clamped to the plane.Sort of an extended spring line.

Another thing I try to do is to remember to plane the endgrain fields first.That way if theres any ragged corners(there`s a special word for this but I can`t remember it) they`re planed out when I do the long grain fields.

MB

My method.... *LINK*

Jamey Amrine

>Here is how I do it....




F&P Construction the Way Norm Doesn't

Re: My method....

Dean Lapinel

>Jamey,

Nice photos and that plow looks like fun!

I always use a haunch mortise but have not had it go through as yours does. Visually...for those that know what it means, it is nice but does the through mortise have any structural weakness as compared to the typical haunch?

Shouldn't be any less strong....

Jamey Amrine

>The only drawback I could foresee with a through tenon is that as the stile shrinks, the end of the tenon could protrude. The stiles are narrow enough that that part shouldn't be too big a deal though. Shrinkage across that width should be minimal. I think the through tenons are more traditional for some styles. When I created the F&P for that page, I was going by the example in St. Roy's book, and that is what he did. The last few F&P's I have done have been blind mortises.

I will mention that I did haunch the tenons, as is necessary when you have a groove that runs the length of your stile. I have also seen examples with open mortises, which if used for doors, I would think should be plenty strong. With today's glues, I would think an open mortise would be a fairly strong joint regardless of application.

Spelching?

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>

Re: Google?

paul womack

>

There it is!

Bob Hackett(Mainely,Bob)

>

New tools needed

Ron in Kokomo

>Get a door set

Three specialized planes to cut the panel, the rail and the stile.

Such a total joy to use. Tod Herrli made mine