Dog Holes

Re: Dog Holes

Adam Cherubini

>That's a pretty small dog, but I'd be more worried about anesthesia than the tool you use.

sorry, I apologize for that.

Adam

Re: Dog Holes

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Although it has several bleeping disadvantages, the quickest tool for the job that I have found, and the one that gives the most consistent results, is a plunge routah with a 45� bearing guided chamfering bit.

The tool you have

Bill Houghton, cold and rainy in Sebastopol, CA

>I'm not quite sure why this current fashion for chamfering round dog holes - the "Popular Woodworking" chamfers, big enough to catch shavings much less sawdust, particularly bemuse me. The dog holes on my solid-core-door benchtop are unchamfered and seem to do fine.

But, if you would like to chamfer the dog holes on your bench, whatever tool you've got that will do the job should be fine. We're not talking furniture here.

If chamfer you must, then I recommend: *LINK*

David Barnett

>the single-flute countersink from Beall Tool Company. This leaves a crisp almost polished chamfer on holes to 1" and will do so in any 3/8" eggbeater. Not exactly cheap but you probably wouldn't wear it out anytime soon and it does what it does better than anything else I've found that's meat powered.


(ribald euphemism deleted)

Re: Dog Holes

Dean Lapinel

>Great one Adam!!

I saw the title "Dog hole" and couldn't resist sniffing this thread. :)

Re: Dog Holes

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I use a handheld countersink that I found on ebay.These tools are commonly found in their other form as brace bits.Cheap and plentiful on the used tool market.---Jack

Re: The tool you have

Christopher Schwarz

>I originally chamfered the holes to stop a problem with softwood tops � pulling the dog out would catch the grain and rip it out. The chamfers stopped that. If you're not having this problem, then there's no need to go the extra step.

There's no disadvantage to it. Dog holes catch shavings no matter what (unless you produce only fine sanding dust at your bench). There are some other small advantages, but I'm just gonna walk away from this one.

Chris

Another reason...

Scott in Douglassville, PA

>After drilling holes in my maple top, the edges of those holes were sharp. Nicked knuckles several times before putting about a 1/32" chamfer on them. With a router. Doh!

my reason

Jack Guzman from Maine

>I have a hard maple top on my bench and I had no tearout problem.I just prefer the look of a small chamfer,and it takes a couple seconds with the right chamfering tool.Same reason I put a light chamfer all around the outside edges of the benchtop.---Jack

Re: Dog Holes

Jamey Amrine

>I am allowing my holdfasts and other knocking about to chamfer mine over time. No special tools required.

Re: Dog Holes

Bruce Branson

>Love the responses. Made my day.

Re: Dog Holes

Steve Kubien

>Mine is a softwood top and I too was having some problems. When I would remove my brass dogs I would sometimes get some tearout as the grain lifted. I used a small chamfering bit in my plunge routah (didn't have a neander equivalent) and I am glad I did. No good reason not to do it IMHO.

Steve Kubien

I wouldn't

Ron in Kokomo

>I agree with several who have suggested that you dont need to do this. I have "softened" the arris with 100 grit and then 220 sand paper. It just eases the edge ever so slightly

Ditto *LINK*

Hank Knight from SC

>It works great. Here's the link:


82 Degree Contersink

Re: Dog Holes

Dave Thompson

>Same here.... though I used a ?1/8"? round over bit. And actually, I used a dremel with a router base plate attachment as my tiny routah.