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How far do you go?

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How far do you go?

#1

How far do you go?

Gerry D.

>Trying to save a Sweet-Heart iron off a jack. After an extended period on the lapping plate and course DMT, still have deep, course scratches running parallel with blade on the left side. Also, to add to my pleasure, the back of the blade is now slightly convex. I have never done this before, but am considering taking the iron to the belt sander. I have a cheap Skil belt sander. Any suggestions as to belt and mechanics of flattening with a belt sander?

Also, how does one get rid of convexity on the back? It seems continued efforts at lapping would just increase the convex.

Thanks,

Gerry

Re: How far do you go?

#2

Re: How far do you go?

Paul in NJ

>Just hone a slight back bevel on the back and be done!

Paul Dzioba

Re: How far do you go?

#3

My opinion

Derek

>What is your time worth? I would not take it too far, myself. A new, thicker & tougher blade will likely out perform it anyway.

In my opinion, a rounded back, if it is from the edge in, is not that big of a deal. It is effectively a back bevel on the blade. Do a search on back-bevels to see what that entails. It will open up the mouth slightly, which you may want to account for if it is used for smoothing. For a jack, it is not a big deal.

If the horizontal scratches are not near the cutting edge, I would not worry about them. If they are very close to the cutting edge (e.g. within 1/32" or so) , grind the bevel back to eliminate it and also reduce the rounding of the back.

Lots of folks use belt sanders for grinding plane irons. Just make sure you are safe. If you point or hold it wrong it can catch and you could get seriously hurt. Keep some water handy for cooling.

Re: How far do you go?

#4

Re: How far do you go?

Derek Cohen (in Perth Australia)

>Hi Gerry

I would not be concerned about scratches UNLESS they form part of the bevel, either the primary/secondary bevel or the the leading edge at the rear.

Of more concern is the round since this can affect the stability of the blade on the frog - probably less of an issue in a jack than a smoother since close tolerances are not as critical.

I would not use a belt sander myself - some can as they have better eye-hand coordination than I. My preference is sandpaper. Have a look at the discussion (below) on flattening the backs of chisels for the method I use.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: How far do you go?

#5

Re: How far do you go?

Derek

>Derek (no I am NOT talking to myself!),

The rounded back will not cause bedding problems because it does not touch the bed in a standard bevel down plane! It will be on top of the cutting edge.

Derek (not from down under)

Re: How far do you go?

#6

Re: How far do you go?

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>I am with Paul on this one.

Do the Charlesworth ruler trick and get to work.

It is very difficult to reverse convexity on an iron. It cna be done but it requires a steady hand and patience

You really would benefit from simply repacing it with a LN, Hock or LV

Good Luck

Dan Clermont

Re: How far do you go?

#7

Re: How far do you go?

Derek Cohen (in Perth Australia)

>Derek (by now I am not sure I am talking to myself ... doctor ...)

Whether it is the frog/bed or the chipbreaker/cap iron that is making contact, either way there will be reduced stability when a sounded surface meets a flat surface.

Regards from Perth (Downunder)

Derek

Re: How far do you go?

#8

Re: How far do you go?

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I hate old rusty irons. With a passion. If I were to describe how I really felt about them, Sir William would have to delete my post, and I would be wasting his time. So I will just assume that you have something you really detest more than anything else in the whole world, and then you will understand how I feel about old rusty irons. A plane that I intend to use gets a new Hock iron.

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