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non - turned chisel handle

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non - turned chisel handle

#1

non - turned chisel handle

Richard Rerra

>Or is that un turned?? Bought a 1 1/2" chisel in a antique shop for $2 (still owe the guy a dollar he couldn't change a Jackson). Knew I'd be good for it. Anyway need to make a handle for the chisel , have some goncalvo alves, beech and some walnut in my meager stock...need to know if there are any plans, articles, sage advice re this next project that will keep me away from "the white whale" the elusive, anxiety producing maddening monster project in it's 4th or 5th year that I just can't seem to get finished.

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#2

Re: non - turned chisel handle

Frank D. in montreal

>Hi Richard,

What kind of chisel is it: tanged or socket? Is/was there a ferrule? Does/did it have a bolster (mortising)?

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#3

Octagonal handles

Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Hi Richard -

Frank has some good questions. If it is a socketed chisel I would suggest you consider a tapered octagonal handle. I am finding these good when I want to do paring and Moxon-like mortising. For your tutorial go to Bob Smalser's article on making oar handles in the Articles section here at WC. Use his ideas there along with the standard tapering ideas from a tapered table let, and voila! For the part that goes in the socket I use a #49 patternmakers rasp.

Regards -

Dave

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#5

Re: non - turned chisel handle

Frank D. in montreal

>Hi Richard,

Sorry if I bombarded you with questions, but I've never made handles for chisels that are socketed. I just didn't want to go on rambling about something for nothing, in case your chisel blades are socketed... I didn't mean to be a smart ass... (I read an above post about tone and that got me thinking about my own post).

Frank

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#6

Re: helpful picture

Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Hi Bugbear -

That's pretty much what mine look like - expect I made the handles a little longer so I could try the Moxon thing some more, and also because I thought it'd be easier to shorten them than lengthen them if the length did not seem right. Mine look just a bit different because of the socket.

Regards -

Dave

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#7

Just remember 2 things

Bob Hackett(Mainely,Bob)

>There needs to be about a 1/8" gap between the top of the socket and the shoulder on the handle and the taper should not bottom out in the socket.No gap=split shoulder sooner or later.If the taper bottoms out the handle will not stay on when the wood shrinks(and it will).

Other than that the shape can be whatever feels good to you and works.

Another tip about first picking them up is to pick them up holding both the socket and handle.Turn the chisel edge up and rap the end of the handle on the bench to seat it and then go to work.This`ll keep the steel from finding your shoe.

Also don`t hang them in a rack that holds them by the handle.Come heating season you`ll be picking the steel portion up off the (hopefully not concrete) floor.

Mainely,Bob

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#8

Re: non - turned chisel handle

Richard Rerra

>tanged , no ferrule, bolster or mortise ???....tell me more..been busy haven't been able to get on line or into shop for that matter...thanks in advance for all the help

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#9

Re: non - turned chisel handle

Frank D. in montreal

>Hi Richard,

A tanged chisel just has a little pin that sticks into the handle (same as on a new file). A ferrule is a little metal ring that wraps around the end of the handle so the tang doesn't end up splitting it. Most chisels that have only a tang also have a ferrule. Some heavy mortise chisels have a bolster instead of a ferrule, it's just a thick metal ring that the blade sits on (it's between the handle and the blade; it's like a thick washer that stops the blade from entering the handle when you bang on it).

A socket is jusr a metal "hoop" at the end of the blade, and the handle is simply inserted into it. Most socketed chisels also have a little tang sticking out of the socket, but they are still called socket chisels.

I won'T have much time to post anything before Wed. so keep an eye out at the top of the board; I'll start a new thread because this one will be too far down.

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#10

Tangs in sockets

Bill Houghton, cold and rainy in Sebastopol, CA

>"Most socketed chisels also have a little tang sticking out of the socket, but they are still called socket chisels."

Maybe up there in Montreal, but down here on the Left Coast of The Country South of Canada, I have never seen a socket chisel with a tang sticking out of it. Could you be confusing an icicle for a tang?

I have been told that Japanese chisels have both a tang and a socket, but haven't seen any U.S. chisels with that feature.

Re: non - turned chisel handle

#11

Re: Tangs in sockets

Frank D. in Montreal

>Sorry, that should have read "some". I'm too tired and should have refrained from posting in a hurry. I'm off to bed now.

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