Hand saw set

Re: Hand saw set

Skip in Falls Church

>Hi Tom,

Yes, the tool is adjustable. However, you may need two of them if you do both fine toothed sawa and saws with larger teeth.

Skip

Re: Hand saw set

Dave Baker

>I have a 24tpi gents saw. Do you know where I can find a saw set that will work on this fine of a saw or is there another technique I need to use? (I have a Stanley 42 which is rated at 12tpi at the finest. The 42W is supposedly good for up to 18tpi.)

Re: Hand saw set *LINK*

David W. Dougherty

>Somax makes one for finer teeth and Joel (Tools for Working Wood, NYC) sells them. I have one and it's definitely finer, but I'm not sure about 24 TPI; I don't own a saw with teeth that fine, so I don't know if it will work or not. You could also file the plunger of another set down to the required size, being careful to remove material equally from both sides.


Tools for Working Wood

Re: Hand saw set

Dave Baker

>Thanks, David. Joel does have the Somax. The finer one goes to 26tpi but unfortunately is out of stock at present. Once I had the Somax name to search on, I found Eddie Sirotich recommends them as well as Chris Gochnour. Do you have any experience with the Kunzler saw set? It seems to be more on the order (size) of the Stanley, but I haven't found any info on it.

Re: Hand saw set

mikew

>Hi Dave,

At 25 ppi, try just filing, alternating the filing direction as usual. There will be a burr left and a small amount of set introduced that you may find is sufficient.

Take care, Mike

Re: Hand saw set

David W. Dougherty

>I do not. I own the two Somax sets, and a old, practically mint, Stanley 42 that I bought from Pete Taran.

Glad to hear that Eddie recommends the Somax sets! I own ALL of his saws and love them dearly. What awesome tools they are.

I read Mike's posting below (re. just filing). Interesting. Hadn't thought about it much, but that might just be the "trick".

Re: Hand saw set

Dave Baker

>The saw makes a beautifully smooth cut; it just happens to curve to the right. And the more I tried to correct the set, the more it curved. I'm new at this so must ask if just filing will allow as much control over an even set as using a set tool? (I'll give it a try and let you know.) Thanks for the suggestion.

Re: Hand saw set

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Why not try stoning the side on which it pulls, until you get a straight cut?

Pam

Re: Hand saw set

mikew

>Hi Dave,

As Pam says, use a very fine diamond stone or an Arkansas hard stone, lay the saw on something flat--I use my bench--with the side that the saw curves to up. With little pressure, slide the stone from the heel to the toe. Make sure one edge of the stone is actually resting on the saw plate as opposed to on the bench.

Try the cut again. Better? If not repeat and test as many times as is necessary to correct the cut. If you get it to where the saw cuts straight but seems to bind from friction, chances are nearly all set is now removed.

At that point, light file each side appropriately, alternating each tooth and without setting the teeth, try the cut at least twice before proceeding with setting. If it cuts fine--do nothing else...

As a side note, it is uneven pressure which most often causes more set on one side than the other. For me, it is the right side of the saw, which is the second side I typically set.

Take care, Mike

Re: Hand saw set

Dave Baker

>Hi Pam and Mike,

I'll try that. I had been laying the saw on its left side on straight hard maple and lightly pounding the right set (the direction it pulls) with a hammer, which proved not to work or at least not the way I was doing it.

Thanks for your help,

Dave