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Plow planes

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Plow planes

#1

Plow planes

Paul in NJ

>I have a 043 type (Rapier) plow that I use for small drawer bottom grooves. It is a cute thing and works well for occasional use but since it is small in my hands it is uncomfortable for extended use, harder woods, or larger grooves. I have been looking at the Record 044 and the various wooden plows and wondering what their merits are. You could probably use half a match plane set for a dedicated drawer bottom plane but I am looking for a plow with an adjustable fence and depth stop. Wooden plows have various ways to adjust and clamp the fences from wedges to bridles to screw arms. Wooden plows also tend to be bigger and heavier than their metal counter parts. What says you plow plane users is there an inherent advantage of one type versus the other?

Paul Dzioba

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#2

Well Paul...

Scott Burr in cold Ben Lomond,CA

>I don't have a clue about the difference between them. Because I've never used a wood plow. I've heard (mooooo) good thing about them.

I have a lot (a heard, again:) of metal plows but alass no wood ones.

I'm no help here as far as wood planes go. If'in you want to discuss metal ones...

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#3

Plow planes comparison 45, 044, 50, woodie

Dave Thompson

>Hi Paul, I did lengthy plow plane comparison of #45, 044, #50 and wooden plow in December. The link is here:

Plow comparison on Woodcentral-12/19/05

In my mind, there are no real advantages that a wooden plow plane has over a metal plane, other than they look cool. Most of the arguments used in woodies vs metal bench planes don't apply to wood plow vs metal plow. Wait, there is one advantage.... you can use them if the temperature in your shop is below freezing. Metal handles suck all the heat out of your hands. ;-) Ofcourse metal plows with wooden handles (like #45 and late #50) defeat this. If you decide to get one anyway, I posted some tips on buying a wood plow in that same thread.

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#4

Re: Plow planes comparison 45, 044, 50, woodie

Warren in Lancaster, PA

>Hi Paul,

I have used the 45 plane for a long time. I think the most important feature is verstility. The double skate system is a definite advantage in stability and in using the plane without the fence. The nickers are useful as well. It is also nice to be able to slide the fence under the blade or raise the whole fence up to be more out of the way.

I don't have a wooden plow with adjustable fence, but I have used them. The ones I have used were more comfortable to use than the 45. There is something a little awkward about the knob on the fence.

I think if I had a wooden plow I would use it for some situations, especialy for production work which can get tiring with the Stanley. I would not trade trade the 45 for a wooden plow.

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#5

Re: Plow planes

Derek Cohen (in Perth Australia)

>Hi Paul

I can't help with the difference between metal and wood ploughs, but I can say a little about the difference between the #043 and #044.

The little Rapier #043 was my first plough plane, and I used it very happily for several years to groove drawers. As you have found, it it is small and lacks the stability and solid feel of a larger plane. The Record #044 came along about two years ago and I immediately preferred this over the #043. I like the grip and I like the blade adjustment (neither of which the #043 has).




#043, #044, #46, and #45 at rear

Where the #043 was complete (3 blades), my #044 came minus depth stop and only had one blade. I managed to fit a spare depth stop from a Stanley #45 (increasing the hole a tad), and converted a few #45 blades by grinding the blade adjustment slot at the rear.



There are other choices.

Neither the #043 and #044 are suited to cross grain work since they lack a nicker. I have found the #045 to be a terrific plane for either ploughing grooves or dados when using its twin nickers. Of course, the #46 is better suited to cross grain work since it has a skewed blade. I have used the #45 for grooving drawers, but I do prefer the #044.

Regards from Perth

Derek (who has just discovered how to post multiple pictures, and to centre them!)

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#6

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Jim Crammond in Monroe, Mi

>Paul,

I actually kind of like my 043, I don't really find it uncomfortable to use, but you're right, it doesn't work well where you need a large groove or when you have a large amount of grooves to make.

I find the Stanley 45 and 55 adequate for this application but when you use them for a while, they become uncomfortable because there is not a good place to hold the plane with your left hand. They are heavier than a wooden plow, also. I find the fence on the Stanleys easier to adjust than a wooden plow because the arms stay parallel and on the later ones there is an adjustment on the fence.

When I need to make a groove, I normally find myself reaching for a wooden plow. My favorite of the woodie types is the type with the wedges to hold the fence in place. This may seem counter intuitive, but I find them easier to adjust. Like the blade on a wooden plane, you just tap the ends of the arms with a hammer to make the fence parallel with the skate. It would seem that the screw arm type would be easier, but in my experience, they are actually a little more fiddly. It is harder to find a screw arm plane with all the threads intact, too.

I like the wooden plows because they are warmer to grasp, there is a place for your left hand that doesn't have sharp points or corners sticking into you hand and they seem lighter, so less tiring in the long run.

Jim

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#7

Re: Plow planes

Paul in NJ

>Thanks everyone for all your thoughts. I am leaning toward a wooden plow since I have been integrating wooden planes into my woodworking. Since the wooden plows use a metal skate and the metal plows use or have provision for using wooden fences, the wood planes have no friction advantage like in bench planes. Wooden planes can be a bit fiddlier with hammer adjusting but I am used to that with my other planes. I am a bit more concerned about how the fences adjust and hold. I don't think I want a screw arm, the ones I usually see have damaged threads and or nuts or are collector planes and priced accordingly. I had made a marking gauge that uses a locking wedge parallel to the arm just like the wedge arm planes. It is very frustrating to use. If you adjust the arm in one direction the wedge would loosen and in the other the wedge would tighten to where you couldn't move the arm. I picture having the same problem with the wedge arm plows. In John Whelan�s books he shows a bridle arm plow and that seems like the one for me, easy to adjust and secure. I was never intrigued by the multi use planes like the 45, 46, etc. and have a nice set of working dados', a recently acquired moving fillister, and I am slowly building up my stock of molders. My only real metal plow contender is the 044 since I own and like the 043. I am going to keep an open mind when I peruse the wares at Patina and Crafts this year or I might decide to build my own wooden plow. Thanks again everyone, I value and am always amazed at the knowledge shared here.

Paul Dzioba

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#8

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John Aniano, in NJ...

>Hi Paul,

I have a few plough planes with both the threaded screw arms as well as one with the wedged arms. Both work OK. The threaded arm plane is a bit easier to make small adjustments as to the blade-to-fence distances.

As to the issue more important to me, I like a wooden plane that has a fully enclosed tote, rather than one that is like an oversized larger sized moulding plane. Using the latter makes my hand very tired after much use, whereas the toted plane is much easier on the palm. Also, a tip here I've learned from my own experience - wear a pair of padded bicycling gloves to hold the plane with and your hands will thank you later on. Works well for all woodies, moulding planes as well as filletsters and ploughs...

John

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#9

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Paul in NJ

>Hi John,

I was wondering about totes too. Are you going to the Crafts Auction this year?

Paul

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#10

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Paul M. in San Diego

>Hi Paul,

I only have a wedged arm plow plane, and the wedges do have a tendancy to slip under heavy use. The lack of a tote is also a problem, making it very uncomfortable to use. I usually wind up with the back arm between my pinkie and ring finger, as this helps me hold the plane vertically and also helps getting the hand in a better position for a solid push. But it also puts your pinkie in harms way if you accidentally bump the plane on the workpiece. That hurts!

I will be in the market for a screw-arm toted plow plane pretty soon. I find the untoted version just too hard to hold.

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#11

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John Aniano, also in NJ...

>Hi Paul,

Yes, I always look forward to the CRAFTS auction and I'm planning to go again this year. Looks to be on April 1st. Maybe we can have a breakfast afterwards at the pancake place with all the usual suspects in attendance.

Can I drive down to the auction site with you this year? That way, I can actually attempt to purchase some tool at the tailgating sales before you do! Will we be arriving after daybreak or before dawn's first light?

John

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#12

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William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Breakfast sounds great. We'll send you in first, to make sure there's no one inside wearing a clown suit.

It's quite a hike from the Cohansey, so I may find it difficult to get to Flemington before dawn, but I'll definitely be there before breakfast.

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#13

Speaking of Adam ...

Raymond in Trenton, NJ

>Sir William,

I don't think Adam will be wearing the suit this year. Specially after all the commotion at breakfast last year. I remember him saying that 'no one understands' and he'll just 'keep it in the shop' from now on. I just hope we're allowed back into the restaurant.

Looking forward to seeing youz guyz (and others) there.

Raymond

who will have plenty of time to shop if Paul is picking up John �


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