re-finish for a woodie jointer

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

ThomD

>I use minwax antique furniture refinisher to clean the surfaces, more out of ignorance than anything else, it isn't very convincing as far as removing any patina is concerned. I basically gives me the sense of having done something without the resulting evidence.

Or just grind it back to bare wood like people do with the floors in their houses of the same period.

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

Steve Kubien

>Thanks Thom. The wood is in pretty good shape with a few very small checks. I applied some CA into those and now just want to re-oil the rest of the plane...to freshen it up as it were. Of course, the new tote needs to finished as well.

Cheers,

Steve Kubien

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>I've heard that varnish-based products tend to reduce blisters from extended use. And that's what I've used on those handles and knobs of metal planes I've cleaned up and tuned.

As for wooden planes, the older one have cleaned up nicely with Murphy's Oil Soap, then a coat of wax. If I ever needed to refurbish a newish wooden plane, such as an ECE, I think I'd use the same finish on there now--which I'm guessing from the feel is lacquer.

Best, Ted

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

Bob Hackett(Mainely,Bob)

>For cleaning I use turps and Scotchbrite if it`s really grungy or Murphy`s oil soap if it`s not.Run the scotchbrite on the new pieces to spread the funk around and help blend things.

For finishing I use BLO+Turps warmed up and then hot beeswax afterward to even things out.Paste wax would probably work just as well but I`ve got access to alot of beeswax.

I`ve never sanded the wood (never had to) as it ruins the patina.

Good luck with it,sounds like it`ll be a real fine addition to the stable.

Mainely,Bob

PS-Don`t forget the pics with those first paper thin shavings.:^)

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

Steve Kubien

>Thanks Bob. There was no need to clean it because it was in real good shape to begin with. HOWEVER, I've also got a jack in need of a tote which is filthy, so I'll take your advice and give it a go.

Cheers,

Steve Kubien

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

Steve Kubien

>Hey Ted,

Murphy's Oil Soap sounds like something I should have in my arsenal. I guess varnish-type stuff and/or lacquer would do the job of sealing the wood nicely. My limited experience with tools finished this way is that they cause me more(!) blisters. I think of my martial arts weapons especially. My bokuto (wooden sword) had a lacquer finish on it and was really a pain to use until I sanded it off. My jo (staff) has never had a finish other than sweat and its a beauty. Curious how we can have different reactions to something so simple, eh? Oil soap, now that's new to me.

Cheers,

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

paul womack

>now just want to re-oil

Linseed oil tends to darken the wood quite a lot.

I normally just use a beeswax/turpentine polish on 0000 steel wool. Cleaning like this essentially softens/removes crap whilst polishing.

If you don't like the result, the (surface) wax can be removed with more turpentine.

BugBear

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer  *LINK*

paul womack

>


http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/1395/cleaning

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

Ernie Miller

>There is some pretty good money in making them wooden swards. I have made more than a few and they are a fun way to use you spoke shaves. You have to get the ballance right though. The most I ever did was oil them.

Re: re-finish for a woodie jointer

ThomD

>I'm using watco as the actual finish. I use tung oil, or BLO, or mix them. But watco saves me money since the mixtures can go off in the bottle at the rate I use them, though there are ways around that... I couldn't get watco up here for about 10 years, so I used all the natural versions. Now that I can find it again I reach for it.

Varnish doesn't cause blisters so badly if you sand it. For some reason the smooth surface raises blisters, nock it back with some 360 paper and it is very friedly to the hand. I never use varnish on tools though. Oil just seems better on all counts.

One of the odd points that came through from the sidebars of the Japanese plane making seminar is that one "shouldn't" oil the planes, just use them as raw blocks. This mostly applies to the fine finishing planes that while they are amazingly durable, can need some periodic tuning, and it would be counter productive to have to refinish them after each tweak. If you don't finish the sole you have the option of finishing or not finishing the rest of the body. I don't keep very many planes at that level of humm. I put this down in the "we don't trust wood enough" column. Always needs to be managed. Also a feeling like it isn't any good if it is a natural material, one needs a plastic membrane to make it safe. Of course, the literature is full of the fact the blocks are oiled, but not oiling is another perspective.