Re: Get empirical, get a microscope
paul womack
> Rather than just settling for a qualitative sharpening/planing experience, he picked up a microscope.
See my other post in this thread.
BugBear
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Re: Get empirical, get a microscope
paul womack
> Rather than just settling for a qualitative sharpening/planing experience, he picked up a microscope.
See my other post in this thread.
BugBear
Re: Stone wear
paul womack
>If you are concerned about stone wear, use half-length figure eights
Why not use full length straight strokes, and work gradually left-and-right on the stone?
Evens out wear (as much as possible), easy to do.
What are the benefits of the figure-8?
BugBear
thanks
ydb1md
>Thanks for all of the responses guys. I should have explained what I use to sharpen. My setup consists of a couple of combination waterstones, an eclipse guide and a Veritas MkII honing guide.
I used to push and pull as I sharpened but wondered at the variable results it seemed that was getting. Hence the question in my post. I've begun to experiment by pulling on the first few strokes and then pushing/pulling or exclusively pulling when using the 8000 grit stone. Also, my results definitely vary depending upon the pressure that I use.
So, the experimenting continues -- with a lot more information from all of you.
Dave
Re: Get empirical, get a microscope
Dave Thompson
>Ahh, you saved the link. Yep, that's the one.
Thanks,
Dave
Benefits of the figure 8
Andrew F in Australia
>Hi Paul,
When freehand sharpening, it's better to use the figure 8 as it allows you to keep the angle of attack uniform with the blade constantly in motion; a backwards and forwards motion requires you to keep the angle of attack constant while you stop and change direction
Cheers,
Andrew
Re: Benefits of the figure 8 *LINK*
Joel
>Any pattern actually works. but with figure 8's you have to stop and change direction at the end of the stroke while you are moving. I use the long 'w's which even out wear nicely and are much more stable - escpecially for the beginner. But unlitmately it doesn't matter much.
When you first learn I recommend stopping at the end of each stroke before reversing, just to get practice. First learn to do it slow speed comes with time.
The key to free hand sharpening is technique - get it down and it works fast and reliable. For those interested I just completed a video for Norton Abrasives on free hand sharpening. it's only 20 minutes or so long, just hits the high points but it's cheap and all about technique. We sell it but it's also available through Norton (I don't even get a royalty) Apparently it's doing gangbusters at shows. THere are two, one for waterstones, one for oilstones.
Re: Science and Experiments...
William Duffield, on the Cohansey
>That was my impression, too. I got a very similar feeling about the recent infamous FWW hand plane vs sandpaper article, except in that case, either the author was less critical of his own results, or the editor was a lot more iron fisted.