Sraping plane blades

Re: Sraping plane blades

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Several options here, assuming that others will chime in with the various metal options. First is the HNT Gordon smoothers (palm and full size) that work wonderfully as scrapers if you turn the blades around, simply excellent.

Second are the Japanese planes officially called sole conditioning planes; but they are really just scrapers and come in several widths. Also excellent performers.

Third are the relatively huge Japanese blades used as is, which look like great tools; however, I just bought my first one and it's not here yet, so can't testify.

Pam

Re: Sraping plane blades

mikew

>Hi Marc,

I relieve the corners on my LN large scraping plane. Not much, just enough to have a little nicer transitions.

On my LV #80-alike, it allows the bowing of the blade, which has come in very handy for localizing the cut and blending the scraped areas to the planed areas.

The large LV scraping plane looks like a good cross between the two in that you can use the thin blade with a bow in it or the thick blade without.

Take care, Mike

I use...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Hock irons in my Stanley 112 and 80. These blades don't flex. I grina about an 1/8 radii on the corners, hone it and go to town. Sorry, I can't comment on thin bladed scraper planes.

Re: Scraping plane blades

Marc in Luxembourg

>Mike,

I think smooth transitions is the aim. So why or when do you use a thin iron with bow and when a thick one? Are there major differences or is it just a matter of personal preferences?

Marc

Re: Scraping plane blades

ThomD

>I have the Kintz scraper plane with a thin blade in it, as well a sevral others. I think the flex alloes you to do a variety of things:

- Most notably it allows you to convert the unit into the scraping equivalent of a Jack plane with a cambered blade, it can be quite agressive. Works well on large objects like table tops made out of not terribly hard wood like walnut or cherry.

- Allow you to cat the edge without needing to resharpen. Same deal as a hand scraper, someimes a particular manipulation will allow you to get a lot more wokr of the edge before you have to re-sharpen. Change the angle or the flex.

- Stiffen the blade so it doesn't chatter.

- As you mention, avoid digging the corners in.

The Kuntz plane was featured in the Krenov plane making video, and it seemed effective as well as cheap, I think LV was selling them at the time. I used it for a while, and then moved on to other styles of plane. It is a good tool for people who don't like, or know how, to surface with a belt sander, when production is the objective. They are extremely fast to set up, just drop the blade in the plane so it rests on the work, and then adjust in a littl bluge and you are cutting, or adjust in a little more forward set.

Re: Sraping plane blades

Jim in Burlington On

>The bowing and the ability to tip the LV scraping plane blade allows you to keep working for alot longer periods between sharpenings.

Re: Sraping plane blades

ThomD

>I totaly agree, though it is a little odd in that one starts with the fine cut, and works towards the coarse cut. I guess one could say the same thing about a plane though on usually has something done before the edge turns bad.