Questions about the Rob Lee chat

Re: Questions about the Rob Lee chat

Wendell @ Murphy, TX

>The late model #289 is 1-7/8" wide (according to Patrick's Blood & Gore) so that would be the only size dado or groove you could make if you really wanted to try it. Not a terriblely useful size for anything I've done :) My wish would be a modern equivalent of a #46 which should be able to do the operations of both a moving filister and dado planes. It would also be nice to see an attachment for the MkII sharpening jig to sharpen the skewed blades.

Wendell

Re: Questions about the Rob Lee chat

ydb1md

>A #46 would be great. I've often debated choking up the change to get a 1/2" or 3/4" #46.

I'll hang onto my little Record 044 for doing rebates and fillisters. I've got a Record 050 on the way. I can't wait to see how it does.

Re: Questions about the Rob Lee chat

Rob Lee

>Hi -

The 289 isn't a good choice for dado or plough applications - that'll be another plane...

The "knarly" wood reference (and it's REALLY hard to keep up in those chats!) wasn't just meant to refer to exotics... it as much applies to the woods that used to be used historically - quality, as much as figure or species...

Think about using clear, straight-grained old-growth lumber.... it's not as much of a challenge to work. Now think of the wood we all use now...

I'd submit that the wood working environment today is not what it was 150 years ago...materials are different, skill sets are different, tools and manufacturing technologies are different....even people are different (nutrition and lifestyle changes have changed our size, and strength). Many of our tools and techniques reflect that.

Cheers -

Rob

Re: Questions about the Rob Lee chat

Dean J in MN

>

The 289 isn't a good choice for dado or plough applications - that'll be another plane...

Don't tease me Rob -- a dado? A plough?

I've been begging for a revival of joint making planes, I think we have plenty of bench plane options, actually far too many... I'd love to be overwhelmed by my dado/rabbet/molders/plough/match/... choices!

-Dean

Re: Questions about the Rob Lee chat

ydb1md

>I doubt that we'll be overwhelmed with choices but I'll be happy to just have an alternative to poring over eBay and antique sites looking for suitable tools.

I'll have a complete set of Record plows soon.

Start....

Rob Lee

>.... saving!

What'll drive the pricing on these styles of planes will be blade costs. Multiple cutter sets will really pad the prices...smaller blades are not really that much less expensive....

Cheers -

Rob

Re: Start saving for... ?

daleM

>Start Saving..?

For LV plows and dado planes or Ebay stuff?

Thanks

daleM

scraping technique?

Gary B

>for flattening handplanes? can anyone elaborate or find a link for this one? much appreciated..

Gary B.

Re: Start....

Dean J in MN

>Oh oh -- this isn't a multiplane is it? :(

Adam, we need to go up and visit Rob with your plastic dado plane idea again!

-Dean

Re: Start....

paul womack

>What'll drive the pricing on these styles of planes will be blade costs. Multiple cutter sets will really pad the prices...smaller blades are not really that much less expensive....

24 blades...

Clifton Multi-plane

BugBear

Re: scraping technique?

ydb1md

>I'm quite interested in this as well. I'm afraid that I might have done more harm than good when I tried my hand at flattening the sole of my bevel up jack. It didn't need it, I just wanted to try something that I read so much about. I made two mistakes in doing this. Mistake #1: I forgot to retract the blade. Mistake #2: I found some wood dust in the moveable toe section of the plane that wasn't allowing the toe to register properly in the sole. So, the toe is now inset a thousandth or so below the surface of the sole.

Re: Start saving.....LV multi plane?

daleM

>LV multi plane?

Rob Lee, Where do I send my cheque?

daleM

#289

Adam Cherubini

>The #289 is just for fillesters. You could cut a rabbet with it as well. Its not for grooves or dadoes.

Keep in mind that outside of cabinet work and some joinery, fillesters (as joints) aren't super typical. These sorts of tools died as more and more machines came on line to replace them. So our beloved hand tools were relegated to work with people who didn't or couldn't work in shops. I think that's why we don't see tenon saws. Carpenters didn't cut them and joiners and cabinetmakers used machines (or worse.....dowels...YIKES!).

With this in mind, along with the notion that modern woodworkers are doing cabinet type work, not carpentry type work, Rob should focus his attention on cabinetry. The #289 is a great plane to reproduce and I'll probably buy one. Next should be dadoes and match planes, not the #46. I vote for 3/4" tools as that is our common stock size today. If Rob were feeling generous, smaller sizes would be helpful. I'd also like to see a tiny plow (like a drawer bottom fillester) with two blades- 1/8" and 1/4". For as long as I've had my plows, I think I've never made a groove more than 1" in from an edge. I can't think of an application for such a feature. His new fenced router is sorta like that.

One thing that worries me is that whatever I say about traditional woodworking is essentially worthless if people can't lay their hands on tools similar to mine. A LV dado would go a long way to helping people make case work quickly my hand. Now if we could only convince some saw maker to make real traditional tenon saws.

Adam

Re: Questions about the Rob Lee chat

Wendell @ Murphy, TX

>I think your thinking of the #39's which are dedicated dado planes thus coming in different widths. The #46 is more like #45 with a skewed blades and nickers so it can plane across the grain well unlike the #45. I've read that the #46 does a nice job on dados. The blade set for the #46 came with a wide blade that was called a filister blade but I haven't seen much talk about how well the #46 works in a filister role.

Wendell

Jeff Gorman...  *LINK*

Paul Kierstead

>


http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/flatsole/scraping2.htm

Re: #289

paul womack

>I'd also like to see a tiny plow (like a drawer bottom fillester) with two blades- 1/8" and 1/4".

Happy to oblige.

BugBear

Re: #289

Rob Lee

>Hi Adam -

First of all.... you'll have to buy two.... right and left...:)

We're not really reproducing a 289... we're using a 289 as a starting point for a new plane...

In this case - we'll be leaving the specifics of application to the users... a pair of skew bladed planes with decent fences and nickers can cover some applications that other's can't.

This'll be a plane one can use one- or two-handed as well, and will obviate the need for us to do a skew block style plane.... or so I think right now.

I agree with you on the grooving application .... that's coming as well. No comment on the basis for that design.

Cheers -

Rob

Yeabut...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>The 39's are have skwewd blades also. Their damn uncomfortable to hold on to IMHO. By the time you collected all of them you'd be out some serious demaro.

A 46 is a fine plane for all the applications said here. I love mine.

The 289 is a great plane for rabbits and filisters, but that's about it.

Of course there always a Record 712, 713 or 714 too..

Re: Kiln Dried

ThomD

>I haven't noticed much differnece in Kiln dried and air dried cherry. I have quite a bit of cherry that I have cut myself, as well as kiln dried material. The colour differences Krenov mentions are real, though cherry darkens pretty quickly in any case. I have noticed a difference in the workability of red oak, but it is hard to know for sure since most of the stock I have there is in rounds vs. KD boards.

KD wood is hard to steam bend. As far as general workability is concerned I don't see enough difference that I have had to modify tools.

beg to differ on the wood quality issue

bill tindall

>"Think about using clear, straight-grained old-growth lumber.... it's not as much of a challenge to work. Now think of the wood we all use now..."

Not what I see in antique furniture. What has always astonished me is what crappy lumber I see in some of these pieces. Apparently lumber was very expensive and/or not readily available when needed. I don't get to see museum antiques often , but I distinctly recall many knots to be seen at Winterthur, the MET, MESDA and elsewhere. And, I see plenty of torn grain in these pieces, not surprisingly. I think what has changed are the standards which many amatures now try to achieve.

While there is a world of differnece between slow growth (an it is slow growth, not old growth) white oak and rapid growth white oak I don't believe there is any significance difference planing slow or rapid growth walnut or cherry, or properly kiln dried vs air dried. One can case harden air drying in the summer just as well as in the kiln.

The main difference in lumber today is that smaller logs have become economical to saw. So lumber today is more narrow and has more sapwood. One can not make a general statement that it grows faster.

now you've done it

ydb1md

>Now you've done it Paul. The 043 was the last one I needed to finish my set of Record ploughs. Now Adam's gonna buy one, write an article and then everyone's gonna buy one. tsk tsk

;-)

Yes Paul!

HC Sakman

>That would be a very useful tool. I just would like to add 1/16" blade to it as well.

Chico...

And don't forget...

Rob Lee

>... metric!

Cheers -

Rob

Yeah but...

Christopher Fitch @ Memphis

>the 712.713,714 are quite pricy...IF you can find them...