What is a good set of handsaws for furnituremaking

Re: What is a good set of handsaws for furniturema *LINK*

Christopher Fitch@Memphis

>One of our posters on WC has a good article on his site about saws...


http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/ww/sawbasics/sawbasics.htm

Re: What is a good set of handsaws for furniturema

mike recchione

>I think Aldren Watson is probably right. You excuded joinery saws from your question, so we're only talking about saws that you use for rough dimensioning. If you do a real lot of this, and you don't have machines, you might need a full complement of tpi's and filing angles, etc. But probably nearly all pros and most hobbyists have machines to do most of their cutting to size, and need to use a hand saw to do this only occasionally.

I don't own any of those machines, and I have, as Todd would say, "more than a few" handsaws. (Although I believe his definition of the expression would differ from mine by one or two orders of magnitude :-) ). But I find myself really using only two of them! And they're basically the ones Aldren Watson said you should have.

I couldn't see having one pair set up for 4/4 oak, another for 8/4, another for poplar, another for pine... I'd spend all my time monkeying around with the saws instead of making stuff. So I've settled on a good compromise solution and have no complaints. (Although, at my age, muscles I didn't even know I had ache for a week after the "cutting to size" day for a new project. But somehow I don't think any new saw without a motor would help that...)

Re: What is a good set of handsaws for furniturema

Steve Kubien

>Hi Lew,

You state that you've already got a good selection of backsaws so I'll ignore those. The saws I reach for most are an 8tpi crosscut for general sizing and softwoods, an 11tpi crosscut for really hard and thin stock and a 5tpi rip saw. The crosscut saws are 26" and the rip is a beast of a 28". I would like to have a shorter crosscut panel saw (20-22") but I am a lot shorter than you (I only make 6'4" wearing my pumps...another story).

As I understand it, (correct me if I am wrong), the skewback saws tend to be taper ground vs straight backs being not-tapered. Not written in stone but I have my stone carving chisels and a tablet ready, just in case. I think a 7tpi ripsaw would be frightfully slow to use in anything great than about 3/4".

The nib.... Well, if I told you what it was for, I'd have to take you to the river for a cement shoe fitting. There's been lots of debate over time about the nib. Some says it is to aid in sighting, some say it aids in holding a guard during storage. Others profess that it is the key to opening a pan-dimensional universe where red meat and deep-fried foods make you slimmer, minty #1's can be had for $5 all the time and your dovetails are perfect...EVERY TIME! I have tried to unlock this door but, suffice to say, I take cholestrol-lowering meds, I've never seen a #1 in the wild and the USN is not calling me to dovetail a submarine together.

I'll stop now...

Steve Kubien - where is that coffee pot?

OT- Intervention

Adam Cherubini

>I think you've had enough coffee. Step away from the cup now, Steve. Don't make me come over there.

Adam

Re: What is a good set of handsaws for furniturema

Patrick Gibbons, Houston, Tx

>A skew back is a way to reduce the metal in a saw, making it lighter but keeping it stiff. Straight back or skew were both taper ground by the top makers. Dry woods used in cabinet making generally can be sawn with less set in the tool. Unless you use handsaws exclusively, you probably don't need to worry about set and rake so much, though as you progress and get a feel for sawing (literally and figuratively) you will want to explore what works for you the best. A well-known saw-filer once told me that the difference in smoothness of cut between a 10 pointer and a 12 pointer was imperceptable. Go with a 10 ppi cross cut, skew or straight, it makes no difference unless you use it 6 to 8 hours a day and think a lighter saw would be better on your sacerilliac (sp?). In my limited experience, 5 1/2 and 6 ppi rip saws are the most common. The 6 will serve you well for most situations though a courser saw is nice when you need it. A 10 ppi panel saw can be used for cross cutting and will rip a board as well, though granted it is slower for ripping than a saw sharpened specifically for the job. It can be used in a miter box and will take less space in storage either in a small shop or a tool box. It can function as a joinery saw, especially when cutting larger tenons. It works nicely on plywood, MDF and mason board (hmm, I use those for panels. Ah ha! a panel saw!). If you had to own one saw and one saw only, the 10 ppi panel would be a good choice (Wonder why it's not called a jack saw?). So, one could make do with one hand saw. After that, it boils down to the same standard question, what do you want to do with your woodworking? My own experience has emphasized Adam C.'s thoughts; ripping is hard work and should be avoided whenever possible. Of late, I've been looking for a decent broad hatchet. Stanley's catalog of 1939 (I believe this is where I read this) suggests in the copy for its scrub plane that it is ideal to use when there's too much to plane off and too little to rip. Personally I love using handsaws. I have way too many and I use them all.

Hmmmm...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Pearls and heels in the shop Mr. Kubien.

I'm not seeing a good picture here...

Re: What is a good set of handsaws for furniturema

Ernie Miller

>You didn't saw what you budget was? If it is low than hit the junk shops and pick one up for $3-7 you will find mostly X cut I like Atkins and they are usualy sheaper than Disstons. Hard wood 9-10 tpi for a rip you will most likely find a 6 TPI and in my openion that is not enough teeth for hard wood so I would refile an 8TPI saw unles you are cutting 8/4 stock. Get an oldar saw make sure it al least has the little ring od dots if it is a Disston so it would have been made by the end of the war or just after it. D-27's are good saws that get looked over for some reason most people go for D-8's keep your eyes open for a 112, D12 or a D-100 if you want the best older saws. Make sure it is not pitted but a little rust can be dealt with. HANDLE! look it over good make sure that it dosent have any cracks unless it is one of the last three and cheap. a few chips on the horns don't hurt. But you want a decant handle and saws are every where.

Wait 'til you see my dress! *LINK*

Steve Kubien

>Ok, it's not exactly a dress but if I'm moving slowly enough, that's what it looks like. It's actually my hakama...very loose Japanese split pants from a long-ago age.

This link will take to the dojo I belong to. Scroll down to the "Keiko Hajime" section. In the left pic, I am 3rd from the left, in the right pic, I am 2-1/2 from the left.

Despite rumours, I don't own a hot-pink hakama.

Steve Kubien


Steve going to war

Re: What is a good set of handsaws for furniturema

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>All good saws, Ernie.

The D-8 was the most popular saw Disston ever made, and for good reason. If the aesthetics and ergonomics of the handle concern you, you'll want to look for a D-8 Thumbhole Rip. The two-handed grips they designed this one for are unsurpassed for long ripping jobs.

Regrettably, as Disston improved the quality of their steel, they let the comfort of their handles slip.

Nice Jammies! :^)

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>

Lee Valley had a good one to add

Jim in Burlington On

>Lee valley carried and was clearing out a handsaw that had Japanese style teeth that worked with a push stroke in a 22" panel saw size. The handle just needs a little altering to make it comfortable to use but it cut's way faster than any other saw I own. That saw get's more use than all the other one's in my shop combined.

You call that a dress!

ernie miller

>It's a good thing I couldn't find the picture as most of you have seen me in a dress and I do have the legs for one. Looking for Rupert Miller

This is a dress!

ernie miller

>Here it is for all of you that missed it.

I don't think that the shoes match;-)

Dan Donaldson

>

Maybe...

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>...after a few drinks? : )

Scary, Ernie, really scary.

Best, Ted

Re: This is a dress!

Steve Kubien

>Sorry Ernie, but the official colours in our dojo are indigo top and black hakama. No floral patterns allowed.

Steve Kubien

Stanley makes one too

Steve Kubien

>I think it is called 'Shark Tooth'. Had one in the shop where I used to work and it cut really fast. Bugger in the hand and on the eyes as well, but fast.

Steve Kubien