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Fitting raised panel to frame

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Fitting raised panel to frame

#1

Fitting raised panel to frame

bill tindall

>Well, you can tell about where I am at in this project by the questions! By the way, the big LN shoulder plane works superbly with a shooting board. Comfortable in the hand, lays flat, sufficient mass , etc. It was a DUH! moment when I noticed it laying on bench when the need to shoot occured. but I digress.

This will be a hand cut panel, unlike the ones I have milled in the past with a straight part transitioning into the bevel. The later are easy to fit to a panel because one just fits the straight (uniform thickness) part to the frame slot. But how does one fit a tapering edge ( the bevel) into a frame slot. If clearance is allowed then the panel will be loose. A perfect fit at current conditions, should I be so lucky to achieve, will leave a loose panel when dryer and wedging when wetter conditions prevail. Are the panels made loose bradded a place or two? Spaceballs, I don't think so. What?

BTW, the handy shoulder plane has served me well for planing bevels too.

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#2

I've seen it done with a

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Brad in 2 diagonal corners to pin it.

Spaceballs, a funny movie...

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#3

Jack Guzman from Maine

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

Jack Guzman from Maine

>When I do these I cut the groove into a piece of scrap and use it to fit the shape.Then I plane another scrap to find my panel edge shape.I make it sloped just enough so it will slide further into the groove with a little pressure but not rattle around if a little loose.If I have to, to get the right fit, I rabbet the back edge.You can make it tight along the end grain as long as the sides can move with expansion.My way,I have no idea if it's correct.---Jack

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#4

What I might Try Sometime

Thomas Skaggs, Foothills of Mount Level

>In thinking about using space balls I thought a do-it-yourself solution could be to squirt a few very small "blobs" of silicone caulk in before inserting the panel. The give and take of the silicone would allow for movement but the caulk would sufficiently keep the panel in place.

I have not tried it yet but intend to. I think it would work.

Tommy

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#5

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

Alice Frampton, UK

>the big LN shoulder plane works superbly with a shooting board

You know that perennial shooting board question; why doesn't the shooting board get planed away? If you use a plane with a full width iron, like a shoulder or rebate plane, then it will get planed away. I'm sure you know that, Bill, but just in case anyone else tries it and wonders why their shooting board starts getting rather narrow... ;~)

Cheers, Alf

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#6

Re: shoulder plane on a shooting board

paul womack

>You'd just about get away with it for shooting long grain, where the plane is guied by it's own sole.

Although the #073 has rather a short sole to generate accuracy in this role.

So - definitely not recommended

BugBear

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#7

a solution (not pretty)

bill tindall

>Necessity being the mothor of invention...... When this problem became apparent, I nicked the spare iron of the shoulder plane on the grinder so the bottom 3/8" doesn't cut. If, someday, I come up with a dedicated shooting board plane that doesn't dig into my hand in use I can grind the nick back out, but realistically I will probably never need the spare iron for anyting else. Among my limited plane collection this plane worked so comforatbly for the task that "sacrificing" a bit of the iron seemed worth the price. The only shortcoming is that the plane will only shoot stuff up to about 7/8", enough in most cases.

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#8

Re: EEK! (again)

paul womack

>

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#9

Re: shoulder plane on a shooting board

bill tindall

>Agreed, but sometimes I make do with what is at hand. I like the economy of multitasking tools. In my hands it worked more comfortably than the #5 I tried and at least for the 3 1/5" stock I was squaring it made things as square as my square, while nibbling to length. The "cost" of nicking a few thousandths of an inch off the corner of the shoulder plane iron was not too great to get on with the project. Every time the #5 (my only alternative) "stalled" in a cut it caused pain and suffering in the hand pushing it, which got old quickly. There isn't any smooth place to gab it. Installing a handle on the side could work.

When I get into another plane building mode I will probably make a lead filled (heavy) wooden plane for shooting. I am unlikely to spend much to acquire single purpose planes.

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#10

I'm blushing with embarasment....

bill tindall

>but forging ahead. This chest is going to be done before gardeining season.

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#11

Tape along the 'bottom' 5mm of the plane, Bill.

Andrew F in Australia

>

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#12

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

John Aniano in NJ...

>Bill,

This is how I did it: I made three large raised panels for the top and sides of my fireplace surround. The raised panels themselves are floating in the rails and stiles and are centered in place by the use of two small brads through the molding on the grooves that hold the crossgrain portion of each panel in place. The brads are in the centers of the panels' end grain sides so the expansion/contraction is allowed to occur evenly.

The picture shows the panels being painted by yours truly. And yes, except for a bit of bandsaw use to rip stock, only hand tools, mostly antiques, were used to make the whole wood surround. A very talented mason did the Rumford fireplace using reclaimed bricks from our basement floor.

John


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Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

#13

Re: Fitting raised panel to frame

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Gorgeous, John. What happened to the left side of the fireplace?

Pam

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