Andy/jointer plane question
ThomD
>"That joint on mandolins is generally done with hide glue unclamped. If you don't use a jig like that, how do you keep the edge square to the face? "
I think your question got answered, but one point that might be worth making is that one not only needs a square joint, but it must be dead straight. Spring or unevenness "can't" be clamped out. One means of getting that right is to use a shooting board as mentioned. However, a shooting board can be used at least two ways. In one, one simply uses the SB to keep the plane square, and one uses the plane sole to contour the lengthwise shape. This should really be improved on in this application because of the fact one wants a rubbed joint. If one uses, however, a fixed shooting board, where the wood is fixed in position then the plane will keep trimming until it removes all the overhang, and as long as the track the plane rides in is dead straight, then the edge will be dead straight also.
I do guitar tops is a better yet revolting manner. I plane them paired with a very fine jointer, freehand. Then I put them in a shooting set-up, and shoot the edges with PSA sandpaper applied to a dead nuts surface, yuck! The result is fast, dead straight and square, and has just the right tooth for the titebond glue I use for Overholtzer style rubbed joints. The one bad thing about shooting guitar tops is that too uneven planing can lead to loss of the precise bookmatch required in the sides. Paired freehand planing won't cause that problem, and the sanding removes hardly any wood at all.