jointer plane questions *LINK*

Re: jointer plane questions

ThomD

>"Are jointer planes typically square so you can clamp them on one side to a flat board and then slide boards against them to get a good joining surface?"

No that is a pretty bad idea, though more generally the 90 degree profile is useful for shooting boards and such which is a fairly similar set-up. That pic on the mandolin page is a poor set-up, though he got it to work for him, so that's fine. Musical instruments do a have a special problem which is that the wood is really wide relative to the length. Like when I make a table, it might be 6'x 2.75 foot. It might be 5 boards. A guitar would proportionally be 6'x 4.5' with a single joint. So one shouldn't count on the clamping up to compress the edge at all, the parts are too thin and too stiff (madolin parts aren't thin so that might be his secret). What you want is edges that are so perfect they don't require any clamping. I just press them together then leave them to dry, using yellow glue. The means to that end is really quite a different process than in general jointing work.

For what you describe an 18-22 inch plane is fine. If ever you needed to spring a joint in longer boards you could just keep reducing the blade projection until the amount of spring was right. I use my number 7 up to 8' with no problem, don't think I have jointed longer pieces that often.

Re: jointer plane questions

Andy in Raleigh

>That joint on mandolins is generally done with hide glue unclamped. If you don't use a jig like that, how do you keep the edge square to the face?

-Andy

Re: jointer plane questions

Bob Fawcett

>You could use a "shooting board".

If the lumber is square, you can clamp the boards together face to face, plane the edge, and when you "open" the boards out any deviation from square is equal and opposite.

Re: jointer plane questions

Warren in Lancaster, PA

>The set up in the picture looks a liitle like the workman was trying to copy the action of a power jointer. If you use this system you will have worry about having the plane iron square to the side of the plane for a square cut. Having the sole of the plane square to the side is of secondary importance. You can adjust the angle of the blade with the lateral adjuster. If the plane body is noticeably out of square, you could use shims or slightly angle the board your stock slides on (or the one the plane sits on) to correct.

Other methods for making this joint include using a shooting board, or planing the edges individually or back to back in a vise.

Some talk like a long plane is essential for making such a joint and the longer the better. A skilled worker can make a good joint with a smoothing plane while a beginner struggles with any plane. Most of us enjoy the advantage a longer plane.

Re: jointer plane questions

ray k

>It's funny that you bring up this topic. After I finished up my wooden jointer, I decided to make a quick makeshift shooting board. I can't believe it took me this long to finally make and use my first shooting board. All I can say is wow! My edge preparation is so much better than on my power jointer. Prior to the shooting board, I was always a bit wary about my planing skills. I'd try to plane the boards square to the sides, but too often it wouldn't come out right. But now I'm convinced, shooting boards are the way to go!

Re: jointer plane questions

john jesseph

>Those planes may or may not be square, but you can do some effective shimming to take care of out-of-square. Here's a makeshift shooting board with a jointer plane. Just two pieces of mdf, one bigger than the other- just laying one on the other. (Also note the elaborate hide glue set-up)

The set-up you linked to is a "permanent" set-up I would guess- I don't think Bill does any other kind of woodworking. His set-up certainly works, and people really like his mandos...

Re: jointer plane questions

Derek Cohen (in Perth Australia)

>It does not matter if the plane is a little out-of-square for use on the shooting board, nor do you need to use shims to correct this. Just adjust the angle of the blade with the lateral adjustment lever.

In any event, I think a jointer is too big a plane for a shooting board.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: jointer plane questions

I'm Dave Too

>I agree with your opinion that a jointer plane is too big for a shooting board. As it were, I JUST finished making a shooting board (can't believe I didn't make one earlier) and find that a 10" Veritas LA smoother has plenty of length and heft (3.5#) to do the job well.

Re: jointer plane questions

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>And if your shooting board is as long as your bench?

Pam

shooting

john jessseph

>I guess I usually use a jack-length plane on my shooting board, sometimes a block plane. I hope I didn't give the impression that the pic showed my usual shooting set-up. Like I said, that is just scraps. I used the jointer for a change- worked great. I think I was jointing a violin top when I took that pic, so I thought it might apply a bit.

My thought is that if I can put a little post-it note or two somewhere for a shim, and leave my plane adjusted for a full width even shaving, I am happy to do it. Particularly for shooting end-grain. Just another choice, another way to skin the cat.

Pam raises a good question...

Re: jointer plane questions

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Hi Pam

I have seen your shooting board - or would it be more correct to call it a planing board? These rules don't apply to you. :>)

Best regards and a happy new year.

Derek

I'll disagree...

Scott Burr in really rainy Ben Lomond,CA

>A no. 7 is a fine example of a shooting plane. Nice and long, I't a benfit when jointing veneer edges. Yes on a bench type shooting board.

I wouldn't use it all the time but, it has it's place. Don't dismay long planes as shooters, After John Wayne was a tall shooter! Pilgram...

:)

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>

Re: jointer plane questions

ray k

>When I first tried using my newly made shooting board (also first time using a shooting board), I tried it with my LN #7. While the edge came out beautifully and ready for immediate edge gluing, the #7 was a bit unwieldy. But then I realized yet again where the light weight of wooden planes really come in handy. I whipped out my wooden jointer and it was much easier to push. I'm sure a jack plane would have worked just as well, but maybe it's just me but I keep thinking a longer plane is probably better for edge joining.

After using my wooden jointer +shooting board to prep the edges of quite a few boards, my hands weren't appreciating the awkward grip. I kept thinking I needed some type of grip to make the operation more comfortable. CAUTION: For you neanderthal purists, the attached image may look absolutely hideous!!! I have to admit that I was taken aback just a bit by the lack of aesthetics of my add-on, but I have to say, the two knobs of the side of my jointer really do make edge jointing with a shooting board much more friendlier on my hands. I decided to use threaded inserts in order to make the knobs removable just in case I needed both cheeks of the plane and to hide the knobs whenever I get too embarassed with how nasty the my jointer looks with the knobs hanging out.