Parallels . . .

Re: Parallels . . .

Dave Chatham

>Okay Steve, Now you have my attention. Will you elaborate on the use of "parallels" , you see my dad is not a tool and die man so I haven't the foggiest idea what you mean. I do know a parallel is a map location or two non divergent lines ( is divergent correct or is it convergent?) so continue please....

I assume you mean the 'adjustable' parallels.

David Barnett

>Yeah, you bet they're nice. You can sometimes find a set on eBay for about half the usual 150 dollars, but even better, you can sometimes nab a set with a missing parallel for dirt cheap. Just buy a single replacement and you're in business. While you can buy totally usable non-Starrett sets (Enco carries the Brown & Sharp set for about 107 dollars, and the Chinese knockoffs are truly affordable), nothing beats the silky adjustability and spot-on locking of the real thing, IMO. Worth every penny. And while you're at it, don't forget the angle blocks, 1-2-3's, 2-3-4's, sine bars, and all the other nice stuff (yeah, might be overkill for most handtool ww, but sweet).

You say divergent, and I say convergent...

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA, gettin' soggy

>Whether two non-parallel straight lines are diverging or converging depends on the direction that you're traveling. According to dictionary.com, though, the mathematical definition is that the lines don't interest, so "non-convergent" would be a more technically correct definition.

Wait a minute Dave...

Bob Hackett(Mainely,Bob)

>You didn`t mention anything about right angle blocks or height gages,snap gages,or...

I find that alot of my (former) machinist tools have a home on my WWing bench too.

I`ll also confess to buying another used felt lined Kennedy machinist tool box to keep things like plane irons,small cutting tools(like carving chisels)marking gages and other layout tools in.

While there is such a thing as too sloppy I have yet to hear anyone complain about something being to precise.It`s always good to have a really accurate reference to turn to when trying to sort things out and troubleshoot.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Wait a minute Dave... (crossover tool ramble) *LINK*

David Barnett

>Oooohhh... height gages. Just the thing for leveling that chalice rim. And angle blocks. I love angle blocks, which I did mention, although not the 'right' angle block, per se, of which I'm especially fond. I've always thought a cylindrical square would be nifty, too, although I can't really imagine needing one. Still...

As for Kennedy chests, I have the one without the "Machinery's Handbook" drawer, but I do have the matching base. I love that chest. Oh sure, I could build one -- planned to, even -- but it'll never happen. I keep threatening to buy another for all the fiddly bits I seem to amass, seeing as I could probably use an entire chest for needle files, escapement files and rifflers alone. They beat hell outa those traditional jeweler's and watchmaker's benches with all those damned drawers which would elude my bendiest efforts and between which I would never fit.

Lately, I've been obsessing over pin vises. The cheap imports leave much to be desired. The collets are poorly sized and badly finished and the rims often nick the soft wires I feed through them, which completely sucks considering the time I spend drawing them through perfectly polished plates and dies. Starrett still makes decent ones, although I think I'm gonna spring for a set from Bergeon. They still make superb handtools. My all-time favorite non-woodworking gizmo is their sawing, filing, miter jig for cutting tubing, wire, sheet*. Even the catalog description warns it could become your favorite tool. I never even had a chance.

As for recent WWing related toolmaking, I'm sawing and lapping a couple small benchstones and slips from a big hunk of really fine chert (Novaculite, jaspers, and so on). It falls just between my translucent (you have to say that these days, I think) white and my translucent black Arkansas stones, which I got decades ago. Everytime someone gives me a slab of jasper I try it out and see how it interacts with tool steel. I've found a few wonders. I also test the unglazed backs of fine table china, too. I've rarely been disappointed.

*http://www.ottofrei.com/store/product.php?productid=62&cat=1136&page=1


Decent pin vises

Re: Parallels . . .

Dave Chatham

>Oh Great, now we have a divergent topic, and I still don't have an ex-machinist father to 'splain this parallel thing for me!

Parallels are used for...

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>setup and similar tasks. They are commonly used to adjust height of items in an end mill vise. Parallel sets are fixed sizes (simply precision sized metal bars) or adjustable. Hope this helps.

Now that Jim's demystified parallels... *LINK*

David Barnett

>I'll tell you a few ways to use them with handtools. I like them for laying out dados and testing them as I saw and floor them. They'll instantly show you inconsistencies in width and depth. Run one along the edge of a housed joint, dado or groove, with a pencil in the same hand and mark 'bumps' for later paring. Check the height of rebates the same way. Use them to lay out, depth, and align mortises and to slope them for wedging. They're an easy way to set ledger strips, add wooden drawer runners to carcasses (while being built or even later), adjust guides for dado planes, check squareness on all manner of stepped surfaces, shooting boards, jigs, whatever. Although I have a couple Starrett combination squares I have avoided resetting them when I've nailed down a measurement, so adjustable parallels augment the arsenal as they're ideal for setting repeatable measurements anywhere a go/no-go gauge is needed. They really come into their own when making a pair or more of anything. They fit in tight spaces better than story sticks. They can be set ever so accurately with calipers, micrometers, dial gauge on a surface plate (good for truing plane soles, tool backs, etc.). Conversely, you can measure *from* them. For Use a good high-viscosity damping grease on the ways, set the screws to just allow a smooth but slow movement, then slip one under something where your ruler just won't fit, push the plates together until they stop, then read the indicated gap with a calipers. With a level, you can accurately read how much to take off a board face or table surface, and exactly where. I like them for laying out and transfering board thickness for dovetails rather than scratch or cutting qauges. I could go on and on (and usually do). I won't even start on handtool tuning and making applications. Consider yourself spared.

One set is really useful. Two sets are wonderful.


A really cheap, really useful set

Oops

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA, gettin' soggy

>just realized I should have said, "two straight lines don't INTERSECT." However, straight lines aren't interesting, either.

Re: Now that Jim's demystified parallels...

Brad Chenoweth in Elyria, Ohio

>Be careful with the cheap imports. I bought a set from Enco. The locking screws would not lock them in place. Sent 'em back and bought Starrett. You'd think a machinist would learn after 20-plus years that you get what you pay for.

Brad Chenoweth, in Elyria, Ohio, thinking about a visit to Rockler tomorrow to spend some Christmas cash.

You'll never go wrong with Starrett.

David Barnett

>Good advice, Brad. I've also heard of imported parallels where locking down the screw caused movement. Infuriating. However, Chris Wood at LittleMachineShop.com is known for his customer service and has a good track record finding bargains for home machinists. Right now he's running a sale on Starrett, too, although I don't recall any adjustable parallels. I know someone who is very happy with these imported sets, but as I've only owned Starrett parallels myself I can't vouch for them personally. I apologize for not making that clearer from the start.

I got mine

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>from Ebay on a slow day for about $7. They work great for me. The good part of metal to wood crossover tools is that the precision is almost always well within woodworking tolerances.