A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II
Doug Trembath
>Now that I have your attention, good fellows, I want to share my time with Garrett Hack last weekend. A friend, who is a very fine woodworker and furniture maker, arranged to have Garrett come in for the weekend. I was allowed to take the class, I think, because I have some small notoriety as a woodturner.
A little history. Like many of you, I suspect, I have eagerly read and applied the teachings from the masters in FWW mag since volume 3, but my collection of books has not kept up with my interest. I applied many of the instructions Garrett has provided over the years, and always looked forward to his articles, as they were presented in everyman's language, and were easy to read and understand. I thought I was getting good results from my hand tools, but struggled with many issues as I progressed. I made pretty stuff, but after this session, I was able to connect the dots to such an extent that my understanding of the concepts and techniques took a quantum leap. I have spent the last week retuning and defining every hand tool I own such that now I feel they would stand up to some pretty hard scrutiny, and I have taken .001 inch shavings with a #78 rabbeting plane. I am in hand tool heaven, and subsequent work should certainly reflect that.
I'd also like to publicly thank our humble moderator, Ted Owen, who just happens to be a very good friend, for the additional guidance and theory he provided as a fellow student. His understanding of these tools was up there with Garrett, IMHO.
Now to the question; I have the LV Mark II sharpening jig, since although I can put a very fine edge on turning tools freehand, I have to this point not been able to avoid rounding the bevel on irons and chisels that way. The jig works wonderfully once the tool is properly arranged in the guide. However, it does have the propensity to allow smaller chisels to move under the hold down bar. It also doesn't align the tools at a perfect 90 deg to the guide. I find it a minor, but consistent annoyance to have to tap a blade or chisel until it aligns with a small engineer's square I have. Once I get it aligned, it allows a perfect bevel, unless the tool moves in the process.
Is this your collective experience? I have heard good things about this guide from the folks here, and wonder if I'm just being too fussy.
Any ideas?
Doug Trembath
Studio in the Woods