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A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

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A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

#1

A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

Doug Trembath

>Now that I have your attention, good fellows, I want to share my time with Garrett Hack last weekend. A friend, who is a very fine woodworker and furniture maker, arranged to have Garrett come in for the weekend. I was allowed to take the class, I think, because I have some small notoriety as a woodturner.

A little history. Like many of you, I suspect, I have eagerly read and applied the teachings from the masters in FWW mag since volume 3, but my collection of books has not kept up with my interest. I applied many of the instructions Garrett has provided over the years, and always looked forward to his articles, as they were presented in everyman's language, and were easy to read and understand. I thought I was getting good results from my hand tools, but struggled with many issues as I progressed. I made pretty stuff, but after this session, I was able to connect the dots to such an extent that my understanding of the concepts and techniques took a quantum leap. I have spent the last week retuning and defining every hand tool I own such that now I feel they would stand up to some pretty hard scrutiny, and I have taken .001 inch shavings with a #78 rabbeting plane. I am in hand tool heaven, and subsequent work should certainly reflect that.

I'd also like to publicly thank our humble moderator, Ted Owen, who just happens to be a very good friend, for the additional guidance and theory he provided as a fellow student. His understanding of these tools was up there with Garrett, IMHO.

Now to the question; I have the LV Mark II sharpening jig, since although I can put a very fine edge on turning tools freehand, I have to this point not been able to avoid rounding the bevel on irons and chisels that way. The jig works wonderfully once the tool is properly arranged in the guide. However, it does have the propensity to allow smaller chisels to move under the hold down bar. It also doesn't align the tools at a perfect 90 deg to the guide. I find it a minor, but consistent annoyance to have to tap a blade or chisel until it aligns with a small engineer's square I have. Once I get it aligned, it allows a perfect bevel, unless the tool moves in the process.

Is this your collective experience? I have heard good things about this guide from the folks here, and wonder if I'm just being too fussy.

Any ideas?

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

#2

Yes, that was a terrific weekend...

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>and Garrett is a warm and enlightening teacher. I was so pleased to slip in there after a cancellation.

It was interesting to see how his planing technique differs from the way I learned. He's much more "arm-ie" than a Jim Kingshott or Frank Klausz, who are more "body-ie" and stiffer-armed. That might partially explain why he prefers narrower planes to something like the 4-1/2. Joel, of Tools for Working Wood, is more like Garrett, too, in that regard.

Also interesting to watch Garrett's traditional mortise-making technique, paring the sides to a knife line. I like using mortising chisels instead and probably will continue, as their sharp sides do most of the side-paring automatically. But it was fun to watch his fine craftsmanship.

Thanks for your kind words, Doug. Always good to see you. As I mentioned at yesterday's turner's meeting, you've taught me so much about turning that it was very satisfying to be able to show you something about planes. I, too, came home after class and sharpened some of the old wooden hand planes I've not yet used. Took a microbevel up to 15000 Shapton, something that would probably make the original users of these planes either chuckle or shake their heads in disbelief. : )

Will be working on cabinet scrapers next.

Best, Ted

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

#3

Question about LV Mk II

Garrett in Victoria

>I have one, and know I have to be very careful about keeping the clamping bar parallel with the base so that clamping pressure on small chisels is distributed equally across the face of the chisel.

There was a thread on this a couple of months ago that included comments from Rob Lee. You might want to search the archives to see if you can find it.

I have noticed, as well, that if I get too vigorous and allow my hands to rotate forward, that the chisel will drag/catch just enough to roll forward and actually lift the jig off the stone. That, of course, also rolls the edge...

Cheers, Garrett

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

#4

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

Jim in VA

>The new LV honing jig will not securely hold the majority of my chisels. IIRC, it holds my LN chisels, but not Two Cherries, Barrs, and a few other (expensive) makers. Rob suggested my chisels were "rounded" and that it is hard to design a jig that grabs a chisel tightly.

I know that many others are pleased with the jig, but I'm probably going to send mine back. It doesn't work well with my chisels (doesn't matter why) and since most of my plane blades have a cambered iron, it does not work well to sharpen those either.

The good news is that LV stands behind its products and I know will take it back.

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

#5

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

Alice Frampton, UK

>Doug,

Yep, holding narrow chisels is always going to cause problems on that type of clamping arrangement. I've had mixed success with mine. Some of my older chisels have slightly rounded "fronts" i.e. On the bevel side of the blade, and they can spin in the clamp all too easily. It helps to even up the clamping pressure from the two screws as much as possible, and crank down pretty hard. I've also had some improvement clamping off-centre, so the hollow in the bar casting is over the blade, rather than the central rib. That way I get two distinct pressure points. The main thing is to remember it's there as a guide; keep the pressure on the bevel and just use the roller to keep the angle constant, rather than putting all the emphasis on the roller end of things.

And nice gloat. I'm as jealous as a jealous thing. But I'm curious; why would you want to take .001 inch shavings with a #78? Apart from "just because I can", naturally :~)

Cheers, Alf

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

#6

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

Doug Trembath

>Thanks, Alf. Yes, as the discussion went, regarding the 78, almost everyone had indicated the tool was practically useless. I had been using mine for years, obviously with less than satisfactory results. In an effort to solidify my understanding of the processes, I just kept tuning the tools until I could get small shavings. Agreed, you woould want to horse your way through the waste, but it's nice to think you could get a nice finish without resorting to a shoulder plane. It is VERY tricky getting the blade set fine enough to cut fine shavings, but rewarding to know with such a large throat opening you can do it, and that's a wonderment all in itself, as you say, "Just to prove it can be done!"

My next project is a 1" shoulder plane out of some exotics I have. Wish me luck.

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

#7

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

paul womack

> It is VERY tricky getting the blade set fine enough [in a #78] to cut fine shavings,

That's one of the reasons the Record #778 is regarded as a Good Thing.

BugBear

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

#8

Re: A Gloat and a question about LV Mk II

Doug Trembath

>But Paul! I don't have one! Have any duplicates you can share?

8>)

Thanks for helping out...

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

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