I am working on a project with some lovely pieces of flamed maple.; the type that presents a real challenge when planning!
I have used the usual �pattern� to get the surfaces flat and smooth; I started with my favourite scrub plane and a very small �scoop�, followed with a fairly well tuned #5, and then on to a low-angle bevel-up jack (out-of-the-box) and a 4� smoother (well tuned).
Now, my �training� (learning by reading / doing) tells me that the easier way to plane a board is to follow the grain � best in the �sweet� direction. This is NOT easy to do with the some �wilder� woods, and the flamed maple is a good example! Running the LA-J / 4� along the grain in one direction is �sweeter� than in the other direction, but neither direction is GOOD. Running the LA-J / 4� across the grain (i.e. along the �flames�) is much more attractive (no tearout).
Why is this so? ? Is this common?
After flattening the wood this way, the surface is not SMOOTH). I was able to SMOOTH the surfaces by running the LA-J along the grain in the �sweet� direction, taking the FFFFINEST whisker shavings.
Greetings from a cold and miserable Munich, where I can keep warm by planing quilted maple!
-g-
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planin
Frank D. in Montreal
>Hi Conger,
No one has answered your question so I'll take a shot...I think planing across the grain works better on some woods because with the curly figure the fibers are easily pryed upwards when planing with the grain. Planing across doesn't give them the chance to lift because they get cut cross-wise (they are cut before they can lift). It's (as I see it) kind of the same phenomenon when using a scrub plane, planing diagonally lets you take cleaner cuts because the blade doesn't have any long-grain fibers to lift and pry upward.
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
>Conger, I only have my own experience to offer, but my LV LA Jack out of the box worked very well on either direction on some quarter-sawn highly figured red maple, but the LA Smoother I just got didn't. I had to flatten the smoother, and sharpen the blade, but with a tight mouth and really flat sole it takes, as you say, whisper thin shavings, and leaves a surface that Garrett Hack couldn't quite duplicate with his LN, with a Holti blade in it tonight. My observation, not his, now. I still haven't touched the Jack's blade, and it will still leave a glass smooth surface in either direction. Garrett mentioned that the sample I brought, which we used for comparison, of quartersawn tiger maple was probably the best test for smoothness of finish, because it is one of the more difficult woods to plane.
Man, does that guy know his stuff!!! I learned a LOT tonight, in quick, small bits that will serve me well for the rest of my life, if I can only get this old brain to kick into overdrive and assimilate it all. Lots of info in a SHORT time.
You mentioned you used your LV plane out of the box, so I wanted to mention that one of mine was less than flat, with the sole proud of the adjustable mouth, and out of the box it was terrible. A little flattening to place the mouth and the blade in the same plane (no pun intended), and sharpening the blade made a BIG difference. Garrett seemed quite impressed. I also am using the 38 degree blade in it, which is relatively equivalent to the York pitch. I don't think the 25 degree blade would come close in performance on this kind of wood. YMMV, of course.
I'll keep you all posted on some of the gems I can glean from Garrett, but anyone who wants to understand the process at an elemental level still should take the class. He explains things from a real world, making furniture perspective, instead of the sometimes high falutin' extreme science angle we see so much of here on WC.
Not that that's a bad thing...
Personally, I don't need or want to view my scratch pattern under a 5000 power microscope to determine if it's as sharp as it can get. I simply want to leave that characteristic sheen that a perfect plane cut leaves. I think I've found my method, and am finally at the point where I can predict what type of surface I will end up with when I pick up a plane. A really nice feeling, shared by many of you. I'm happy to be there with you.
Doug Trembath
Studio in the Woods
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planin
Conger - the Irish diaspora in Munich
>Thanks to John, Frank, and Doug for the responses. It seems like my observations are indeed founded. Peculiar that so few of the 400+ readers of my posting, responded. Is working flamed maple so unusual?
Anyways, I am so looking forward to applying a good finish that will lift the 'flames' out and make the little cabinet 'sing'.
Thanks again.... -g-
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planin
Wiley Horne--Glendora, CA
>Hello Gerry,
That is fantastic wood you've got--European maple is reputed to be a fine tonewood, and that looks to be instrument grade that you have, and way expensive stuff.
I am hoping you will show us the cabinet you are making.
Now as to the planing question, I am wondering exactly what species you have. Acer pseudoplatanus? Acer platanoides? And how similar or different it is compared to the North American Acers. If that were a North American wood, my opinion would be that either your 4-1/2 (it's an LN, right), or your Lee Valley low angle jack should plane it cleanly--at least in thin shavings of 1 thou or less.
Anyway, I think there would be more response if we were more knowledgeable about the wood. Perhaps the luthiers amongst us are. Please show the cabinet work as it proceeds. Or at least a view of Oktoberfest from ground-zero!
Wiley
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planin
Frank D. in Montreal
>Hi Dean,
If you look right after the title of the post, you see in parenthesis "views: 417", that means 417 people have clicked on it. Your post has had 8 clicks so far (hard to say exactly how many people have actually read it, some people click twice I imagine).
regards
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
I was in a hurry when i posted, but I agree with Wiley, that's some wood! Curly maple is my favorite. I'd like to hear which species too, if you know. I have the same experience as Wiley on the maple I work with, at fifty degrees with thin shavings there is usually no tearout.
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planin
Dean Lapinel
>Hi Frank,
None of my headers have any numbers by them or after therm....just the date. I would like to know the # of hits per post. I wonder if it's something in the preferences?
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planin
Skip in Falls Church
>Hi Frank,
At home I have my preferences set for threaded list, single message, mixed order and the number of views shows up. At work I have it set for presentation, letter box (I think) and the number of views doesn't show up. I don't know why the differences - but that's the way it seems to work.
Skip
Re: Flamed maple � peculiar behaviour while planing.
