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Hand Plane

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Hand Plane

#1

Hand Plane

Rick in Washington state

>This is my first attempt at making a hand plane. I purchased the book Making and Mastering WOOD PLANES, by David Fink. Great book by the way. This project took aprox 6-8 working hours. I waited untill my Hock blade and chipbreaker came in the mail. I purchased the 1-1/2" x 3". The plane is 11" x 2-1/2" with chamfered bottom. Main body is maple, the wedge is cherry, the cross pin is jatoba. I made the throat opening just a little to wide. Although I am very pleased with the performance of the tool. And plan on making many more for myself and as gifts. Thaks for looking any comments are welcome.

Rick


Re: Hand Plane

#2

Re: Hand Plane

Paul Kierstead

>Dang, man, that is a nice looking plane. I have been contemplating making a york pitch smoother and you are definitely inspiring me. Time to tell the g/f to order me an iron for christmas I think.

Re: Hand Plane

#3

smoking!

frank shic (walnut ck, ca)

>

Re: Hand Plane

#4

Re: Hand Plane

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Rick

That is a beautiful plane! If it performs anywhere near as well as it looks, you have every reason to be proud.

My only query is about the use of Maple for the body or, more appropriately, the sole. Is this hard enough? The only experience I have had with Rock Maple indicated that it was quite a soft wood compared with the local Aussie fare.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Hand Plane

#5

Re: Hand Plane

paul womack

>My only query is about the use of Maple for the body or, more appropriately, the sole. Is this hard enough?

IIRC maple is about as hard as beech, which has proven historically to be "hard enough".

Of course (as you imply) planes could be made from still harder woods.

BugBear

Re: Hand Plane

#6

picture taken in OR?

john jesseph

>

Re: Hand Plane

#7

It's a Paperweight

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>Rick,

Looks like you did a real good job of making this plane, -congrats.

Looks to be a smoother. Perhaps a brass sole would over come the problem if the maple proves to be too soft, which I doubt, but would be interested in knowing.

I saw that book that you mentioned about a year ago in a used book store, and wish the heck now I had bought it. I "hid" it, but I guess somebody found it. :~(

Any chance of you posting some more pics of it. would like to see the mouth, and some with the blade removed.

Got to say that until we some shavings it's nothing more than a paperweight tho. ;~) Shavings required!

Todd O.

Re: Hand Plane

#9

Re: It's a Paperweight

Rick in Washington state

>I'm still learning how to ajust the blade for the correct debth. the suface left behind as far as I can feel is ready for finish!! I'm still trying to figure out how to get the burn marks left by the router out of the screw channel. I also need to order 8000grit Norton waterstone, for final sharpening. 4000 will have to do until then.

Once again thanks for all the comments and more are welcome. I will be updating as regards to the choice of Maple. I chose it, because it was practically free, and this was my first hand plane.

Rick


Re: Hand Plane

#10

Removing the burn marks

Denny

>Rick,

I've found that I can usually remove the burn marks by going back over them with the router bit that caused them. Take the bit out of the router and then use it to scrape away the burns by hand. Usually a few seconds of scraping does the trick, beats using sandpaper.

Denny

Re: Hand Plane

#11

It's a Plane!

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native in FL. Exile :~(

>Now than Mr. Rick, that is the way to show off a Craftsman made plane! Good show. Coarse a nice shot of the plane actually cutting a shaving is always nice too, but these pics will do nicely. Thanks.

I wouldn't sweat those burn marks, over Time, the natural patinaing process will soon cover them.

Todd O.

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