Pagan Thought Tickling At My Consciousnous

Re: Pagan Thought Tickling At My Consciousnous

Ernie Miller

>I used to use my band saw but them day are over. it should work but why cheat?

Ernie - Cheating Isn't My Goal - The

Howard In Toronto

>result is my goal.

I'm simply running out of time.

This project is for a silverware/napkin tray for my sister-in-law's dining room table that I promised it to her in time for Hanukah.

I obviously need more practise.

Learning the process effectively is taking longer than I'd bargained for.

I simply prefer the visual refinement of handcut DTs vs the coarsness of router-cut DTs.

Howard

Why not use a frame-saw of some sort?

Jonathan Kaplan (OR)

>If it is speed you are after, it seems like it would be almost as fast to use a small hack-saw / frame saw to get rid of most of the waste and then go after the rest with chisels (a fairly standard approach). I'm not sure that I see how using a powered one would really speed things up that much -- it is getting everything lined up, etc, and not overcutting that take the most time, and those wouldn't, I think, be speeded up with power..? Am I missing something..?

Re: Pagan Thought Tickling At My Consciousnous

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>Perhaps you are expecting too much from the way your hand cut dovetails look. Option number two, perhaps you need a sharp saw. But yes, scroll saw, band saw, table saw, chain saw will all work if you cut inside the line and pare to fit. But I wouldn't expect my dovetails to look like they do in pictures in magazines. Those are usually touched up to look better, same as the underwear models.

Moses - They're

Howard In Toronto

>touched up?

How?

Maybe mine aren't so bad after all..

Thank you.

Howard

Re: Touch-ups

Ed in Leaside

>Touch-ups ...are done in Photoshop. Remember how I cloned, removed blemishes, and generally cleaned up the scan for your clock? We do that for most images destined for print. Some times more than camera/scanner spot removal is performed. ;-)

BTW, I hope you haven't been looking at your DTs with a loupe, vernier caliper, or dial indicator.

Photoshop touch-ups

Adam Cherubini

>Those are usually touched up to look better, same as the underwear models.

That's true about photoshop. All the photos I take are digitally enhanced. I'm actually short, and have thick hair and a beard! And that's not all. I'm a WOMAN!

Sorry guys, I'm just kidding about that. I'm only a woman on Thursday nights.

Adamina

Re: Pagan Thought Tickling At My Consciousnous

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>I've done them that way, lots of times. In fact, quite a while ago, I used to cut one side of the pins with my bandsaw and the other with my scrollsaw, since one's table tilts one way, and the other tilts the other. I set them both at 7�.

Note also that for cutting tails, especially London style, the bandsaw can be a lot quicker than a coping saw, since after two or three quick, wide kerfs, you can use it to flatten the bottom of the space between the tails. If they are "utility" dovetails, especially if your secondary wood is compliant, like pine, you can just bash them together right off the saw.

Lately, if I'm in a hurry, I cut the kerfs with the L-N DT saw, and then use the bandsaurus instead of chopping to hog out the waste, and then pare the bottoms with an L-N bench chisel. I find this gives me more accuracy than making the initial cuts with the bandsaw.

Re: Pagan Thought Tickling At My Consciousnous

John Vancil in Silverdale, Wa

>Howard I can't cut a decent practice dovetail but I can cut very good dovetails for the drawer I built for the Shaker table. The reason is that I slowed down and was very careful. Just maybe that might be the case with you. Why not start out with your tray parts long and try cutting dovetails for the two corners diagonal from each other and if you can't cut acceptable dovetails. Than trim your boards and then use a band saw or scroll saw. Good luck John

Wedges

Frank D. in Montreal

>The good thing about the bandsaw (or scrollsaw I guess, but I've never used one0 is that it'll give you sidewalls that are at a right angle, so paring will be easier.

You really should learn how to make wedges: with a sharp chisel, on a scrap of the same wood (the wood that you used for the project) cut (pare) a thin slice going slightly deeper into the wood as you cut. then pull out your chisel and chop it off from the top. Chop off the very thin end just a little, so your wedge doesn't collapse as you put it in a gap. Once you have a few of these made you can fill all those unsightly gaps and they won't show at all, just a little glue and you push them in. With a little practice you get pretty good at making wedges that fit just right.