Shoulder Plane Setup?

Re: Shoulder Plane Setup?

Frank D.

>Hi Bob,

I have less experience than many on this board, but FWIW I grind the sides of the blade (I use 2 metal shoulder planes, and did this to my chisel plane also) so they come out even with the sides of the plane. I can't see myself readjusting the blade every time I want to turn the plane around (when I'm doing inside corners). I don't grind the blade on a power grinder though, I take my time on a stone just to make sure not to take off too much metal.

Frank

Re: Now, How Did I Do That?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Somehow, I posted my opinions and advise on your question over on the Normite Forum, instead of here, where it has a better chance to stir up some interesting and useful discussions :^)

Just in case someone else might want to read it, but not search for it through that other, very noisy, forum, I'm copying it here. Note that there are already some differences of opinion posted over there.

The optimum is exactly as wide as the body, and exactly parallel blade sides, exactly perpendicular to the edge. However, it will work without tweaking the blade, if the blade is a smidgen wider the body, but it will NOT work without constant tweaking if the blade ends up narrower than the body. I agree with Chico, that 1/32 is too fat, as the side of the blade will drag and will score the tenon cheek, and the precision that was built into the squareness of the plane's sides just goes right out the window. In other words, you want to be using the precisely machined sides of the plane to control your cut, and not the side of the blade.

If you decide you want to get really close, be very careful that your grinding of the blade does not make it narrower as it gets farther from the edge. Eventually, repeated sharpening will bring that narrower blade down to the edge, and it just won't work properly when that happens. If you do not trust your precision machining skills, one important thing you can do to mitigate the effects of a too wide blade is to knock off the sharp edges of the top of the sides of the blade, so they do not scratch the side of the wood you are working. I use 320, 400 or 600 grit SiC sandpaper to do this. Don't get anywhere near the sides of the back of the blade with the sandpaper. Those edges must stay sharp, because they will eventually end up at the edge.

I have set up my L-N 073 so that I cannot detect, by touch, the junction between the sides of the blade and the sides of the plane. That's probably a lot tighter tolerances than you need.

I set up my LV bullnose shoulder plane the same way, but I didn't take as much time to get it really precise, because I use that plane for different applications than a large shoulder plane, that do not require as much precision. I can always refine it later if I need it for very precise joinery on small projects.

Re: Shoulder Plane Setup?

Todd Stock

>William has the flick - body width or very slightly wider. My 073 came with 1.500 body and 1.501 blade, while the 042 was .750/.753 - close enough. Sounds like some careful work with a stone will take the 1/32 down to maybe .002 or so over.

Every tool is a kit, right?

Re: 042 Shoulder Plane?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>I think the tolerances you report would be close enough for me, and I'd spend my limited time allotted to fettling on other issues.

How do you like the new 042 L-N medium shoulder plane? I guess there are questions that would be more to the point, for example, "Why did you hold out for the 042, instead of the LV MSP or even a Cliffton, which have been available for much longer?" or, "If you happen to have one of each, how about some comparative comments?"

Re: Shoulder Plane Setup?

Paul Kierstead

>Well, I don't use the LV (I have no set screws), but I just lie the plane on the side that will be the reference side (i.e. the side that will be against something), loosen the blade slightly to allow it to align with the body, retighten the blade and go. Takes a few seconds, tops. Unless you are actually using it for grooving or constantly switching directions, *I* see no reason why the blade would have to be exactly the same width as the body. Obviously opinions vary .....

Re: 042 Shoulder Plane?

Todd Stock

>I guess I just really like the feel of the 073 (Record and now the LN; never had a Preston), and the 042 is pretty much a narrower version.

As to why I waited, I suppose I had no burning need for a medium width tool, and preferred not to settle for something that would not please me. I'm not knocking the LV or the Clifton - both appear to be fine alternatives - but neither did it for me WRT appearance or feel.

Usual review - feels great, no set-up needed other than minor honing (10 minutes), and ability to pull really fine shavings from end grain. Square body, close tolerances, and a nice blade. Unlike the 073, I did not have to break the edges on the 042 body. The edges look sharp, but are not, which I prefer to the 'California Roundover' buff job on some current production tools.

The blademaker sez

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>Always make the blade wider than the plane. It can be adjusted to fit by careful grinding or honing. Stretching a blade that is too narrow will ruin the temper 8-)

Re: The blademaker sez

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>And if one were mass producing shoulder planes and the blades that go in them, one would have to study his process variances very carefully to be sure that the narrowest blade coming off of one assembly line was always wider than the widest plane off the other assembly line, otherwise one would either end up with a lot of scrap or, worse, a lot of returns. That means that the average blade in the average plane might stick a bit farther out the sides than is optimal, and every so often a particularly wide blade would get paired up with a particularly narrow plane.

Re: The blademaker sez

Bob Fawcett

>Where do you get those blade stretchers anyway? :-)