Moldings

Re: Moldings

paul womack

>How would one make a complex molding with wood planes, specifically Hollows and Rounds?

Don McConnell tells all...

a magnificent description

My short version

words

BugBear

Re: Moldings *LINK*

mikew

>Hi Brad,

This is a sequence drawing I prepared for someone else to make the profile shown. Should be obvious the different plows and H&Rs. Original text below.

A larger version is at the link.

Mike

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Note that only the board thickness and the profile are to any sort of scale. Neither the cutters nor the H&Rs are to scale.

I draw the profile on the end of the wood, usually. I have at times also used a panel marking gauge to transfer lines down the length of the stock, making notations in pencil right on the face of the board as to shape/cutter.

A number 10 or 12 H&R and a number 4 or 6 H&R are needed. As is a plow with various width irons. If something other than a Stanley #55 is used, you will need to tack on guide strips to the surface, which could alter the sequence a little.

In actual practice, the H&R are "worked" into the profile, pivoting on an imaginary axis in order to cut the full sweep of the cove or ovolo (well, ok, really a combined profile known as a cyma recta).

While I wouldn't relish the thought of using a shoulder plane in place of a plow plane, there is only one place on the profile that a sizable shoulder plane couldn't be forced to work. The starting point, #1, due to it being defined (or confined) by the convex portion to its left and the angular portion on its right (at least how the graphic below shows it) limits the width of the cutter.

In the cut sequence, #s 6/7, being concave, are often defined with a plow with different width irons and stepping down in size as one cuts into the cove. This I did not show. It is done to waste stock quickly to be followed by the H&Rs and to provide a straight channel for the H&Rs to follow. #6 would be heavily shaped with plow irons while I would probably only use the cutter used at sequence #1 to plow a single channel for sequence #7.

There are probably more things I am missing that I don't think about when doing. And it's been a while since making some molding by hand.

Make sure to practice on an easily worked wood, perhaps 2 foot long. I use Mahogany for practice mostly, sometimes Pine, but it is stringy. This will help you practice the sequence and most likely find something I left out or put down incorrectly. If so, give me a holler here or via my email address and I'll try to help.

It looks like more work than it is, btw




Large graphic version

Re: Moldings

mikew

>I should have added that where the rounds are used, one would rough out the waste with a plow as well...made for a confusing graphic, though.

Mike

Re: Moldings

Warren in Lancaster, PA

>Some observations: Generally I make moldings at the edge of a wider board. It is difficult to secure a narrow piece either on the bench or in a vise and long narrow piece can get floppy if it is secured at the ends. It is easier to mark the width of the molding while you still have square corners. Pick the most favorable corner of the board for your molding- usually both the face and edge should be oriented so you can plane in the same directon.

Plow and rabbet planes should remove as much material as possible. Since these planes have fences and depth stops, they contribute to the uniformity of the molding. A round plane can be guided by a groove from the plow or the corner made by a rabbet plane. If you work it so the marks left by the rabbet or plow disappear just as the molding is done, they will also help with uniformity.

I would recommend taking full length shavings with the molding planes and correcting any irregularities as they occur; it is difficult to tidy up sloppiness when the molding is nearly done.

Re: Moldings

David Barnett - Venice, Florida

>My method's pretty simple, too (like B. Jones, as quoted by Paul), but I like to chamfer away excess wherever possible and define tracks for rounds with a V-groove plane, a moulder I find to be surprising versatile, quicker and freer than the plough as I can fence it with my fingers at various angles.

Re: Don McConnell

Ron Harper

>Now there is a wonderful craftsman and an outstanding gentleman. Back in another life when I had much more time for things Galootish, Don came to my shop in Kokomo on a couple of occasions for "Hoosier Galoots" and generously taught us a whole lot of useful information. You should watch this guy cut dovetails!!

It is truly a delightful thing about this craft, that a guy who makes his living doing very high quality woodworking would so generously give his free time to teach a bunch of recreational woodworkers of widely disparate skill levels, and do it all with gentle wit and a smile.