Draw Knives

Re: Draw Knives

paul womack

>I would like to know which side of the draw knife goes up

It depends on what yer' doin'

The whole appeal of draw knives is the versatility/flexibility.

BugBear

Re: Draw Knives *LINK*

LR Smith in NC

>I would suggest viewing Brian Boggs' DVD, "Drawknives, Spokeshaves and Travishers; A Chairmaker's Tool Kit." He covers use and sharpening.


Boggs DVD

Amen to that

Ron in Kokomo

>There is no better teacher in this area than Brian

Re: Draw Knives

Greg Betit Sherman Oaks CA

>This is a fairly regularly debated topic, and there are those who have different opinions. Here's mine.

If you are working on a flat or convex work piece, the flat side of the knife is handiest down. Working on a concave surface with the bevel side down gives you a little more control. This side down also is helpful controlling cuts in reversing grain situations.

I sharpen mine holding the knife like an old-time fiddler holds his violin. I hold one handle with the left hand, and rest the other against my side just under the arm pit. That gives it good support, and I have a good view of the edge as I apply the stone to the cutting edge with my right hand.

Greg

Re: Draw Knives

Jim in Burlington On

>There a nice article here (in the articles section) on how to sharpen them I use that method. I mostly use mine with the bevel up. Wilkenson seems to be the best IMO.

Here's the link to the article Jim mentioned *LINK*

A.J. Byrd

>Great article and a good place to start, Bob knows his stuff.

A.J.


Bob Smalser Drawknife Article

Re: Draw Knives

Adam Cherubini

>I like bevel down. Its a myth that you have more control with the tool flat against the wood. Folks that do it this way just get good at it. Its not a superior method ofr teh reaon the blade is shaped that way.

A drawknife is not like a plane. The important part of a plane's sole is the "wear", the area in front of the blade, not the are behind it. So I recommend trying it both ways and do whatever feels comfortable. I often think there are right and wrong ways, or at least efficient and inefficient ways, but this isn't one of them, IMHO.

I have two tips I haven't seen mentioned yet.

1) when sharpening your draw knife wear gloves!

2) In use you can both skew the blade (in lieu of attacking at a right angle), and you can draw the blade in a slicing motion as you pull toward you. Most beginners I've seen hack hack hack at the wood like they are use a hatchet. Like every other tool including the hatchet, finesse is helpful.

Good luck with your draw knife- its a great tool.

Adam

Sherman Oaks?

john jesseph

>Hi Greg- did you move to California, or is this just your current location??

Re: Draw Knives

Paul in NJ

>I was never comfortable using my draw knife bevel up until I read Michael Dunbar's book on using and restoring hand tools. He suggests adding a very slight and small (2-3 degrees) bevel to the flat side of the blade. This helps to keep the draw knife from 'diving' into the wood. The handles on many draw knives align with the flat side of the blade which in my opinion makes using them with the flat side down more efficient especially when hogging off a lot of wood. If I remember correctly chair maker Brian Boggs bends the handles to get the best of both sides of the blade.

When I sharpen, I clamp the draw knife edge up where the corner of the blade curves 90 degrees in a machinists vise.

Paul Dzioba

P.S. My favorite draw knife is a small PEXTO with pear shaped handles that angle 45 instead of 90 degrees. It seems that I don't have to grip so tight, my Witherby cramps my hands after using it a while. I might even bend the handles on the Witherby out some, after all all tools are a kit.