Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
First dovetail saw
Robert Sobieck
>I have never cut a dovetail by hand. I would like to start. I have nice Marples blue chisels but lack an adequte saw. I would like a recommendation on something to start with that is good but not too expensive. I have seen the brand Zona as inexpensive models, not sure if this cuts the mustard though.
Bob
Re: First dovetail saw
bill tindall
>I saw students at college of Redwoods using the Zona saw. I found that I didn't like pull saws and got the dovetail saw from LN. Its attributes have aided me greatly in accurate tracking. The video is very helpful too. When we do a dovetail class, in general the students find it easier to saw accurately with these saws than the cheap alternatives they show up with. On the other hand, for thin stuff I do use the Zona saw. Using it today in fact.
I am sure that there are some reconditioned old saws that will do as well. In any case I think you will find that a quality saw makes a significant difference, especially for a beginner.
Re: First dovetail saw
Dan Donaldson
>Woodcraft sells a small backsaw that works well if you take a stone and remove some of the set. It is not as good as a LN or other, but it works surprisingly well (especially for $10;-)). I have done several of them for people that I showed how to cut dovetails and did not have much money to spend. Another alternative is the smaller japanese saws, depending on whether you prefer pull or push stroke. If money does not matter so much, then a LN is a good one. I prefer the straight handled one, but others like the regulat handle.
Re: First dovetail saw
paul womack
>At the risk of being a heathen, I just don't see the need for super dovetail saws. As long as the blade is not warped (easy to check), and the set is minimal (easily achieved by stoning), there is so little actual cutting going on that your skill (which comes from technique and practise) is far more important.
BugBear
Re: First dovetail saw
Robert Sobieck
>Would you use the Zona? Or perhaps other that you have success with?
Bob
Re: First dovetail saw
paul womack
>I use an old Tyzack that I sharpened. Not a "great" or "famous" saw brand, but the limiting factor is still me, not the saw.
If you want to "invest", I would say this offers more DT bang-per-buck than anything I know of.
BugBear
Tyzack not "great" or "famous"...
Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA
>I think their a great saw. They can be picked up somewhat less than the cost of a Disston too. I have a few Tyzacks, and I love feeding the elephants...
Granted they need a little help to get cutting well.
BTW Norm used Tyzacks if that matters...
Decisions, decisions...
Jonathan Kaplan (OR)
>Hi Rob,
At some point, you'll have to decide whether to go with a Japanese-style "pull" saw or a western-style "push" saw. Obviously, people acheive superb results with both sorts of saws, and one sort is not obviously "better" than the other.
That said, I started off with "pull" saws and enjoy using them. For DT's, I prefer a japanese "Dozuki" with rip teath. There are many good ones available; I've heard very good things about the Lee Valley version. It isn't cheap, but it is supposedly a very nice saw. I've not used it myself. Nor, come to that, have I used any of the "Zona" saws...
Well, this is probably not so helpful after all, but anyway...
jk
Tyzack, hated mine
bill tindall
>This was the first dovetail saw that I bought, and have since sold at a substantial loss. It seemed well made and pretty to behold. But, I could not saw a line with it. The teeth were way too small and the handle too clunky to gain any sort of tactile feeling of what way the saw was pointed.
As far as reworking a saw, consider the original post. This is a beginner. He doesn't need to steepen the learning curve by having to learn to tune a saw as well as saw a line.
Re: First dovetail saw
Glenn
>At Rosewood Studio they use the Zona saw but reverse the blade so it becomes a push saw rather than a pull saw. The instructor got fabulous results using the Zona saw in this fashion. I myself have a LN Dovetail saw, never used the Zona, and love it but I was not getting the results the instructor was. I have to agree with others that your skill level will have a bigger impact on your dovetails than your saw. If you are looking for a first saw I think the Zona is a good choice for several reasons:
1. Low cost
2. Can be configured for either push or pull.
3. Can be used out of the box or with very minor fettling (I think this is a big positive especially for someone starting out).
Glenn
Re: Tyzack
Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX
>Don't know, Bill. I cut my first dovetails in 1981 with a then new Tyzack from Woodsmith, they were perfect, saw cut like a dream.
Pam
Re: Tyzack, hated mine
paul womack
>This was the first dovetail saw that I bought, and have since sold at a substantial loss.
I couldn't lose much dough if I sold mine. It cost 2 GBP at a car boot sale. I guess this makes it an older model, since the handle is comfortable.
BugBear
BB's Tyzack
Derek Cohen (in Perth Australia)
>Hi BB
Looking at the picture of your Tyzack DT saw, I wondered if you realize that the angled blade is due to the rear section coming out of the steel reinforcing? It is not actually angled at all. If you unscrew the handle, you can tap the blade until it again fits cleanly in the reinforcing back. Of course you can continue to use it as it is :)
Regards from Perth
Derek
Re: First dovetail saw
Robert Sobieck
>Do you know which particular model Zona is used? Teeth per inch and such? I will probably start here.
Thank you!
Re: First dovetail saw
Glenn
>I am not 100% sure but I believe the Rosewood Studio uses this saw: http://www.jacquescoulombe.com/zona08.htm . I would be willing to bet if you called them they would be glad to tell you with Zona saw they use. There web page is: http://www.rosewoodstudio.com/. You can get the number off the web page or send them an email. They have always replied to me quickly via email in the past.
Glenn
Re: nope.
paul womack
>I wondered if you realize that the angled blade is due to the rear section coming out of the steel reinforcing? It is not actually angled at all.
Not so.
Having checked the saw, the blade is registered to the handle by the screws.
And the steel reinforcing ("back") fits exactly into a slot, also machined into the handle. This tells me that, since the back and the blade are in their original position w.r.t. the handle, they must be in their original position w.r.t. each other, at least where they enter the handle.
It is possible that the toe end has moved though. I can't think of a way to know.
BugBear