Gloat! The hunt is over!!! (And I met Ernie)

Re: Gloat! The hunt is over!!! (And I met Ernie)

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>They're nifty tools, aren't they? Congrats.

Sounds like you might want to continue that acquaintance - someone to learn a lot from.

Re: Gloat! The hunt is over!!! (And I met Ernie)

Roger Nixon

>That is kinda funny. I gave our Ernie a Silver Manufacturing post drill. Yours probably says "Salem, Ohio" on it so you know where it came from. Silver is also behind the "Silver & Deming" drill bits.

Go Steve, Go!

Darrell in Oakville

>Excellent. Steve has started collecting Big Human-Powered Iron. You know where this is going to lead you, eh? Treadle lathe, mortiser, pedal-powered scroll saw, mitre trimmer, and oh man, the Holy Grail of BHPI, the hand-crank rip saw.

Get a new chuck on that thing Steve, and start making holes in stuff. Have you ever just drilled holes in scrap with that old electrickery powered drill press? I didn't think so. But you *will* do that with your post drill. DAMHIKT.

Good score Steve.

Darrell

Wood Hoarder, Blade Sharpener, and Occasional Tool User

Salem Ohio?

Steve Kubien

>Hi Roger,

I did a little research in Silver Manuf. and found they were in Salem. Funny thing is, I could swear it says, 'Salt MO" on it. The print is a little worn and I was too excited to see or think clearly.

Cheers,

Steve Kubien

chuck replacement surgery

Steve Kubien

>So how do I replace the chuck? It looks like the original is part of the drive shaft (correct term?) and was all machined from a solid piece. If that's the case, I supposed I need to cut it off and find a way of mounting a Jacobs. I'm no machinist and this could quickly get outta my league.

Suggestions and/or ideas are welcome at this point.

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

Re: chuck replacement surgery

Ernie Miller

>What you need to do is find a good brace with a three jaw chuck or at least one that will hold a twist drill good. then you cut it off the drill leaving enough room to insert it into the chuck on the post drill. tighten up the chuck bolt and you are ready to go. It's a trick Roger tought me I am in the process of collecting the Silver and Demming bits that are smaller than 1/2" I have a good start and you will be doing the same so don't cut off the original chuck. Ernie? must be a nice guy.

Good call Ernie!

Bob Hackett

>Why butcher the original chuck/spindle when it`s easier to have a machinist make up an adapter to go from the old chuck to either a Jacobs taper or thread to take a late model jacobs chuck?

Don`t have a jacobs?Look around the area(or Ebay)for one the size you need with a morse taper then have the machinist modify the taper to fit the original chuck set-up.

Ernie(the one you bought the drill from) probably has at least one old bit you can use for a pattern for what you need.

Mainely,Bob

BTW-I use the same technique to stack a smaller precision chuck in my DP when doing fine work or need to hold a drill smaller than the stock chuck will grab.

That's the route I'm taking

Steve Kubien

>Many have voiced this advice to me (on and offline) and I like it alot. I am planning to take the Jacob's off my drill press (which I hate and will be thankful to get rid off) and go from there. Not sure how to remove the Jacobs but I haven't looked into it very hard either. As a nice aside from all of this, there are other parts of the Rockwell drill press that I can scrounge and put to good use (pulleys, motor, etc).

Thanks for all of the help.

Steve Kubien

Removing a chuck...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Get yourself a dead blow soft faced mallet and start tapping it side to side i.e. perpendicular to the DP shaft. It should come right off with some gentle persuasion.

Not necessarily

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Some drill presses have a threaded collar that holds the chuck in place. I'd spend some time examining your post drill closely before starting to hit it.

Even if the chuck is held in with a taper, a lot of presses will have a cross-hole into which you can put a tapered chunk of steel to dislodge the taper. That's better than side to side whapping.

Some confusion or is it me?

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>I thought Steve was talking about the chuck on his 'lctirc drill press, not the post drill. Sorry for any confusion...

Re: Some confusion or is it me?

Steve Kubien

>Let me clarify (this will be new territory for me).... I am going to take the Jacob's chuck off me drill press so I can mount it on my post drill.

Bill, what you are describing sounds kinda like the pin used to dismount a face plate on a lathe. Am I reading you correctly?

I will look for a cross-pin-type-hole on the drill press quill. If that fails, I'll try the mallet approach. If THAT fails, I can always try a bigger mallet. :)

Thanks for the tips/advice. I'll let you know how things work out.

Steve Kubien

Re: Some confusion or is it me?

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>What you'd find is a slot cross-milled through the shank of the drill press/post drill, with the tip of the taper shaft just visible at the bottom. You drive a tapered chunk-o-steel through that - serves the same sort of purpose as the knockout bar on a lathe to remove the Morse taper fitments. I don't think it's real common on modern presses, only older ones.

My old (pre-WWII) Craftsman drill presses have a threaded collar that holds the chuck in place, removable with a pin wrench, similar to how some screw-on face plates are removed (or how some of the multi-jaw chucks are tightened).

Anyway, just look it over carefully, so you know how things are held in place.

Re: Gloat! The hunt is over!!! (And I met Ernie)

Ernie Miller

>Befor you go about mucking up a working Drill press I would look for a differant chuck The 1/2" steel of a brace fits in the chuck of the post drill. or you can watch e-bay or other sorces for one. leaving that drill press in tact for sale to cover the expences of the chuck. Seems like you are swimming against the current instead of drifting with it.