Molding plane questions, bewilderment

Ergonomics at work

jim reed @ Tallahassee

>The typical moulding plane is sized to hold in your hand comfortably. Just like a stack of currency, a deck of punch cards, or a woman's party clutch to name a few examples. Stanley #4 is exactly the same size, just wider. As for adjustment, leave the wedge loose in storage. The wood will swell and the wedge will get stuck. When you are ready to use it, tap the iron for a deeper cut or tap the rear of the body to back the iron out. Then set the wedge and go to work. Remember to loosen the wedge when you put it up for storage. It is pretty simple when you do it a few times. Good luck.

Re: Molding plane questions, bewilderment

Paul in NJ

>Bill,

I think the reason these planes are shaped the way they are is for clearance. These planes are often used to clean up features in moldings or used in combination with other shaping planes. Think of a complex molding with several features and I think you will understand. Adjustment on these small blade size planes is a little tricky for the reasons that you give. Don't set the wedge too tight and creep up on your adjustment. Start from no shaving and gradually increase the depth by tapping the top of the iron. Since the iron and wedge are tapered as you increase the depth, you need to give the wedge a light tap too. If you go too far, sometimes it is better to start over. With a large blade plane like a jack you could give a sharp rap to the back or to the top of the toe to decrease the set but this doesn't always work with a molding plane. If that strategy doesn't work just give a few taps to the top of the iron to loosen and start over. I am not sure I can help you with the grip. I just pinch the the plane with the back corner nestled against the web between my thumb and fore finger. I pinch the front of the plane, both thumbs on the same side of the plane. While some joint making planes like plows and match (tongue and groove) had integral handles, I believe they were more costly to build and needed a wider piece of stock. I also think molding planes were tall in height to give you a sense of plumb.

I hope this answers some of your questions. I don't have a lot of experience with these types of planes but I am eager to learn more. Hopefully someone more experienced will weigh in.

Paul Dzioba

P.S. Sometimes these old planes we try to bring back to usefulness have shrunk across their width, making their irons a tight fit. Often there is a build up of crud in the wedge mortise that needs to be cleaned. I like to let a 'new' old plane adjust to my shop before I do anything drastic.

thanks, that was helpful and makes sense

bill tindall

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Re: Molding plane questions, bewilderment

James Watriss

>While this doesn't necessarily pertain to hollows, it can be noted that on rounds, the beveled side leading to the sole is actually angled such that if you hold the bevel flat to a face that is perpendicular to the piece being cut, and you run it along that corner, when the full concavity has been shaped, it will come all the way in to that corner.

The matching bevel on the hollows is likely a result of a lot of body blanks being cut in batches.