Re: My "Stupid Dog Trick" Shooting Board
William Duffield, on the Cohansey
>Sorry, Doug,
You didn't find it because it was conveyed to Bill in private correspondence. It is designed to be thrown into the back of a truck and hauled to a jobsite. It has enough mass that it works, even with a #7, even if you can't find a sturdy bench to set it on. I've used it hung it over the lip of the concrete curb that separates the laundry area from the parking area at the back of a garage.
Instructions and drawing are for sinister Neanderthals. You might want to reverse everything if you are right handed.
Basically, here's all the info I sent Bill to allow him to throw together this kludge.
Making one is "falling off a log" easy, if you can do parallel and perpendicular cuts in plywood. Start with a square of 1" or 3/4" thick cabinet grade plywood about 2 ft. square. Next, cut another one the same size, except 2 1/2" or so narrower. You can use two 3/4" thick sheets, but a 1" thick bottom board and a 1/2" thick top board gives you more flexibility. Attach the top board to the right side of the bottom board, with screws and glue, leaving a chute on the left side that the jointer rides in, on its side. Attach a fence to the back edge of the top board, with screws, flush with the edge of the chute. For most work, a couple inches wide and an inch high works fine. You may need to adjust the perpendicularity to the chute with screwdriver and mallet. After you've got it square, put in a couple more screws. Attach another cleat to the bottom front of the board, so you have something to hook over the front edge of a bench, table, tailgate or sawhorse. You will also need a removable miter fence. Use the same stock as for the perpendicular fence, but cut the left end at 45° instead of at 90°. This gets screwed to the top, only when needed, with the 45° end flush with the edge of the chute. If you are going to use the miter fence a lot, then Instead of screws, you can install threaded inserts in the top and attach the fence with a pair of threaded studs with plastic handles.
Here's a quick isometric drawing of the beast, not quite to scale, but all dimensions have a lot of leaway, anyhow. Sorry for not removing hidden lines and not showing fasteners. If this is not clear, let me know. It doesn't do a very good job of trimming large crown molding, because the detachable miter fence isn't high enough and the jointer blade isn't wide enough. To maximize its capabilities, the miter fence should be a bit higher than the top of the widest blade you might want to use on it.
Maybe bill will offer comments on any modifications and improvements he made in his.
Happy slicing and dicing.
