>My shop is filled with mostly power tools, but I am starting to collect and learn more and more about hand tools. I want to replace my cheap Stanley block planes, and I have heard a lot of good things about the hand planes from Lee Valley.
For use a general purpose block plane to be used in furniture building would you recoomend the "low angle" version or the "standard" version? (I can only afford to buy one right now, so telling me I need both won't do much good)
>There's been a lot of debate about this. The classic answer is to buy the standard (20 degree) angle plane. The latest, more radical answer is to buy the low angle plane and an extra iron (if you can afford it) to grind at a higher angle, thus getting both planes in one shot.
If you're doing mostly fairly mild North American hardwoods, I'm not sure it necessarily makes much difference. I find myself leaning toward using my low-angle plane (Stanley No. 65) more, but that may be because it fits my hand better.
>If I could only have one, it would be the low angle. It is useful for paring end grain as well as general purpose planing. Lee Valley has good stuff and Rob Lee stands behind his products.
>I'll second the low angle. Generally, I find myself using my block plane more for shaving off bits and pieces, or for trimming end grain, rather than using it for serious work like smoothing. If you have a #3 or #4, then I don't see the need for a "normal" angle block plane, but that's just me.
If you're getting into hand tools, my first investment would be in some good sharpening stones. People will rant and rave about shaptons in here, and nortons are good too... and it's an ongoing topic with a lot of opinions, and for sure some of those opinions will clash in here. I think most of them would agree that some good waterstones will serve you well. Oilstones are good, too, but many of us made the switch after a while. You do have to flatten them regularly, but they're still a worthwhile investment. When oilstones wear out, I find they're just worn out. You can flatten them, but it's harder, and they don't seem to cut the same. At least, not for me.
Then, learn to sharpen. Or, learn to get things to what you think is sharp, then come in here and ask more questions about sharpening. With the possible exception of saws, almost every tool out of the box will need some attention. Lie Nielsen and Lee Valley come decently sharp out of the box, but they're nowhere near what they could be. And you're going to have to keep them sharp, once you get them there. That goes for planes, chisels, and western style hand saws. Carving tools, too... anything you use that has a cutting edge on it.
>If you want one block plane with maximum flexibility and minimum hassle, get the Veritas Low Angle Adjustable Mouth block plane. With the low angle, you can use it to plane end grain. With the adjustable mouth, and maybe a second blade, you can use it like a small smoother for planing a wide variety of woods with the grain. It's only potential drawback is that it is kind of large and heavy and it's not as pretty as the more expensive Lie-Nielsen. The optional front knob helps a lot to alleviate any grip problems you may have with it.
>When you get your handplane (recommend the low angle), make sure you put a GOOD straight edge against the sole. I recently witnessed a brand new LV adjustable mouth block plane with a substantial hump at the throat opening. It was obviously from machining, and no further work was done on the sole.
The customer returned it to the local Calgary LV and purchased a LN instead, feeling for the money he should NOT have had to fettle the plane.
It was likely an honest production error, but as a beginner you may not know what to look for in a new plane, how it should perform, or especially, how to tune it.
>Don't pitch the stanley. Tune it up and buy a good replacement blade for it. I have the Veritas block plane and there are no problems with it at all. That way you can grind the 2 plane blades with different angles.
