Did I use the right glue?

Re: Did I use the right glue?

Luke Herzberg

>With a through bolted tote, I don't think the glue repair is that highly stressed anyhow. The gorilla glue will probably last a lifetime and epoxy might last a lifetime and a half...I dunno. I suspect you won't have any trouble.

Incidentally, I've found that Elmers poly glue (which I can't recall the name of) is darn near half the price of Gorilla.

- Luke

Re: Did I use the right glue?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>IMHO, you should have used epoxy. It forms a strong, physical bond even with gaps between the pieces. Gorilla Glue on the other hand tends to foam up to fill the gaps. This keeps water out, and provides a structural support, but it is not as resiliant as the epoxy. If the gaps are small, you probably won't have a strucutral problem with the Gorilla Glue in that application. On problem you might have is being able to see and feel the glue line. You could have added pigments or dyes to the epoxy to match the wood, but not with Gorilla Glue. I don't know how well it takes filler or stain.

Is this a modern #1213 with a red lacquered tote?

Re: Did I use the right glue?

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I've picked up a couple of Stanley planes with broken totes and repaired the handles with regular old yaller Elmer's carpenter's glue. Granted, these were clean breaks in the sense that the wood fit back together nicely, but they were easy repairs. I can't even recall which planes they were without going out and looking at the totes closely.

These were rosewood totes, too. Everyone always says you have to treat rosewood differently, clean off the surface with acetone or some such. I just was lucky enough to be ignorant, I guess (preceding paragraph attempts to be Toddly - how'd I do?).

I did learn that those trigger-type bar clamps, with the big plastic faces, were the ideal clamps for the application, providing just right pressure on an odd shape.

Re: Did I use the right glue?

Denis Chénard, Orléans, Ont.

>I think it is, my father bought it years ago (and he's 70 now).

It looks like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Defiance-by-Stanley-Wood-Plane_W0QQitemZ6112086321QQcategoryZ13874QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

The break in the tote is about 1 1/4" from the bottom.

DC

Re: Did I use the right glue?

William Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Sorry, Didn't intend to confuse you. The one on eBay is a #1203, not a #1213. The 1213 was a less sophisticated plane, without blade adjustments, and a screw down lever cap. John Walter notes that the 1203 were built from 1925 to 1953, and (not that it's important to you) that the average price runs from $10 to $50.

Re: Did I use the right glue?

Denis Chénard, Orléans, Ont.

>Mine's got all the regular adjustments the Bailey planes have, except it's all "cruder". Castings, fit and finish, are down in quality from what I expect from vintage Stanley planes. For instance, the frog is not machined, but painted. I don't expect this plane to sell for thousands in an auction, but, heck, if I can make it work for me, great...

In the middle of the frog casting there's a "C 72" stamped, which suggests the plane was made in 1972, that would jive with my father's memory...

The plane is Canadian made ("MADE IN CAN" in the casting), probably comes from Roxton Falls, where Stanley had a factory.

If I have the chance I'll post pictures tonight.

DC