How to make the doweled Krenov case joint
bill tindall
>At the encouragement of Mr. Duffield I will describe how David Finck made the joint in this separate post. This thread should only deal with how to make the joint while the merits of this approach rage on below. These steps are repeated as faithfully as I remember from my notes and pictures from the David Finck Class on Krenov cabinets(see earlier post reviewing class). Further, I assume that David's approach is similar, if not identical, to Krenov.
Assumptions- 5 " deep case
Cut a block of hard dense wood about 1 x 1 x 6". Mark one side of this block case "outside" and case "front" (or inside and back if you are contrary and don' t like the idea of dowels to begin with =:-) ). On the top of the block sketch the profile of the cabinet sides to include the rabbit for back and rabbit for front if door is partially inset. This sketch is to indicate where there will and won't be wood in the door side so that a dowel hole doesn't wind up in a back or front rabbit (of course I would never make that mistake, often).
On the top of this block, which will soon become the cheapest dowel jig you ever bought, mark the centers for 7 dowels locating two closely spaced at front and back edges. These marks can be free hand located as no one will ever see if they are in a line, evenly spaced or whatever. Go to drill press and drill these 1/4" holes in the jig bock. In addition, drill two nail holes that will enable a snug nail fit. see below for drill and dowel info In the 2 minutes it took to do this, one has now made the dowel jig for locating all the dowel holes with great accuracy and repeatability.
On the pieces that will be top and bottom mark where the outside of the cabinet sides will be located. On a typical K.cabinet these marks will be well short of the ends of the board to allow overhang and profiling the edges. Clamp the jig "outside" face at the outside cabinet line on the cabinet top(or bottom) piece. Tap with hammer to get perfect alignment with this mark and cabinet front. (If cabinet front is curved index jig off the cabinet back) When perfect, drive in the two nails. Take to drill press and drill the 7 holes. Repeat 3 more times for the 4 top and bottom corners. Repeat for the 4 top and bottom corners of the sides except here one uses a hand drill. Install the numbers 2 and 6 dowels for dry fitting. These dowels will be replaced upon final glueing. If their holes get messed up (they don't) there are 5 more dowels to aide the cause.
Counter sink (just a bit) all holes to provide a place for glue squeeze out to go. With chisel pare a shaving from the ends of the cabinet sides stopping 1/8" approx from the outside edges. This operation ensures a tight fit of side to bottom and top.
Dowels to use- fluted commercial dowel that everyone sells. Drill to use. David fussed with the "perfect"dowel fit selecting the fractinal, number or letter drill such that the dowel pushed in by hand with good resistance but it didn't need to be driven in. A brad point and spurs were hand ground on this metal drill bit with edge of grinder. It is not hard after seeing it can be done.
Maybe this all sounds complicated, but when you see it done it is blazing fast. There was no measuring of anything with a ruler. The cabient frame was measured from the door previously made. the dowel jig located the holes. the cabinet back defined the back rabbits, Etc. It was an eye opening approach to building to tolerances I am not used to achieving with a ruler. The top and bottom hung oversized to await profiling to taste. Cabinet could be assembled with the 8 dowels but came apart easily for diddling with knife hinge and catch placement, mortising, etc.
Maybe you got to see it to believe it. I went in a harsh skeptic and came away a convert.
